Well desided i would try a set of 275/60/15 mickey thompson drag radials. Imo they suck. I recently had my converter restalled. Prior to restall car was pulling 1.55 60ft but converter was hurting me on the top end. Now it is snappy off the line and good upstairs. Anyway car wouldnt hook for sh*t blowing tire away. First pass went 11.27@119 with a 1.65 60ft spun for about 5 feet. Second pass for the hell of it i desided to use the transbrake knowing it would spin but I was having fun either way that pass car had a 1.75 60ft and went 11.50@119. Guess i have to go back to a true slick never spun witg them.
First Time at track on a DR not impressed.
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What was the tire pressure?
A freind described the drs to me luke this, they can be as good as a slick but you have to work at it. Burnout, pressure, humidity, planets aligned, etc....
But a slick is always a slick is always a slick. When you punch it you go. Period.
A freind described the drs to me luke this, they can be as good as a slick but you have to work at it. Burnout, pressure, humidity, planets aligned, etc....
But a slick is always a slick is always a slick. When you punch it you go. Period.
was at 16psi didnt really have time to do alot of adjustment because in between run i was falli g asleep of boardom because the track i was at is so slooooooooooww. And i was getting irritated at that.online170 said:
Did you have the old version of the E.T. Drag Radial? If so, Mickey Thompson has done something about that, here's the link : http://www.mickeythompsontires.com/stri ... tRadialPro They only come in the size your running....Don't get discouraged friend the Drag Radial has a place in the 1320..... like already stated, tire pressure is a factor with the drag radials...cheer up, you'll find the sweet spot. BTW, NIce times you have either way...I am running the Nitto Drag Radial 275x60x15 and they are down to the wear bars and I spin off the line, hurting me that's for sure.....When they were new, they hooked well......I'ma grab some M.T. e.t. Streets next year 8)
ET streets are great for the track but they get eaten up on the street. My car is 20 street 80 strip and I left my ET streets on all summer and they are showing. ET street are just as good as slick IMO with 1.50 60 foots, but the street is not to nice to them.
You are way too low psi for a drag radial. Drag radials and slicks are two completely different leagues. Next time you go start at 20 and see what happens. What RPM are you launching at?
My car goes 1.505 60's very consistantly, and that's with making no changes. Track prep is huge with drag radials too. I think a slick is much more forgiving on a less than par track.
My car goes 1.505 60's very consistantly, and that's with making no changes. Track prep is huge with drag radials too. I think a slick is much more forgiving on a less than par track.
I figured tire pressure was low. As far as rpm launch i am launching from dead idle on first run converter flashes around 3800.79loserbluebu said:
Not discouaged bud. Just havent been able to get get to track like I use to to tune tweak and play. But i just got in to a track rental coming uo on sept 17th. So i should be able to get car where i want it i hope high 10's on motor. I actual had more fun when i was running 11.70's with a no thrills cheapy 383.JBreu said:
We have a local track that is borderline at best for the word "track". Its bumpy as hell and has horrible traction prep.
A guy was there a couple years ago with a built up AMC Javelin, I figure was capable of low 12s maybe 11s. He was trapping anywhere from 109 to 112mph.
He couldnt get out of the 13's to save his life. We eventually convinced him to do a nice looooooong burnout, and reduce his pressure from 18psi to 12psi, and he broke into the low 12s almost immediately.
Like I said, they CAN work, its just hard to get there. IMO, they are a compromise. If you race your car alot, and drive it little, Id say DR's are good. Or if you have serious traction issues then DR's are good.
But if you mostly drive your car, its cheaper in the long run to have a street tire for street and a set of slicks for race. They will last longer in their respective duties.
A guy was there a couple years ago with a built up AMC Javelin, I figure was capable of low 12s maybe 11s. He was trapping anywhere from 109 to 112mph.
He couldnt get out of the 13's to save his life. We eventually convinced him to do a nice looooooong burnout, and reduce his pressure from 18psi to 12psi, and he broke into the low 12s almost immediately.
Like I said, they CAN work, its just hard to get there. IMO, they are a compromise. If you race your car alot, and drive it little, Id say DR's are good. Or if you have serious traction issues then DR's are good.
But if you mostly drive your car, its cheaper in the long run to have a street tire for street and a set of slicks for race. They will last longer in their respective duties.
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