Front suspension help

[hy82e]

I have a 1982 Buick Regal g body.
The plans for the car. Mild cammed LS 6.0 iron block, daily driver I hope to be around 450rwhp. To be honest other than a couple runs during the Honeymoon period with the car, it will hardly see track time street or drag. (unless the bug bites).Still I want it to be able to perform when the opportunity comes up.

What I'm looking for is an all around performance. Jack of all trades, not a master of one.

I've talked to a few guys like UMI, and Marcus Sc&c . They all were good guys with great ideas and products to make them come together, but.... here the plot thickens. dun...dun...dun........ The budget, $600 approx. Now I'd love to hit the easy button call Marcus Sc&c and have him send me over his Stage 2 plus kit with springs and shocks on top, well lets just make it coilovers why not. The reality is if I don't find a package I can afford I'm just dreaming and not building.

Now on to the good stuff. I've come up with 3 basic plans. Please share you opinions, or ideas.

1. UB Machine tubular upper a-arms $150
Proforged tall upper ball joints $100
Proforged tall lower ball joints $100
Moog problem solver LCA bushings $40
Bilstein shocks $140
Moog 5660 springs $60
Total $590
I could step up to Howe ball joints here Xtall uppers and .5" lowers for $140 more = $730 adds up FAST

2. UB Machine tubular upper a-arms $150
Moog stock upper ball joints $32
Proforged tall lower ball joints $100
Moog problem solver LCA bushings $40
Bilstein shocks $140
Moog 5660 springs $60
Total $522
This frees up some $$ to upgrade shocks or springs. Or maybe start with Howe lower ball joints and then do the uppers later

3. Moog stock upper ball joints $32
Moog stock lower ball joints $50
Moog problem solver UCA bushings $40
Moog problem solver LCA bushings $40
Viking double adjustable coilovers $500
Total $662
I could save about $50 dollars going with single adjustable QA1 coil overs


Now I listed Moog bushings to meet the daily driving needs, prices dont change much to go with poly or something.

I'll also add that the car is being built back up from bare frame. It will also be receiving the basic frame supports MAYBE some boxing in on the frame rails. I'm going for a ballpark 2" drop and will probably live with 15" wheels for a while.

Please help a noob out let me know what ya'll think.

 

[vonclod]

i myself think option #3 is interesting..im really liking the viking adjustable coilovers, love the adjustability and being able to lower up to 3"..they are on my want list.

 

[307 Regal]

I like the idea of the double adjustable coilovers. I bought Viking coilovers along with their rear shocks and Hotchkis springs a while back, all in a package deal from UMI. I usually wait until UMI is having a sale and then make a large purchase. I just put in the rear shocks and springs last night. I haven't even driven it yet and I'm already having fun changing the settings and pushing on the car. :lol:

I think if you went with any double adjustable shock, that would be a good step. When you get the 6.0 in the car you're going to have a lot of power. If you buy the double adjustable shocks first then you can set the shocks up for drag racing to help hook up all that power. While you're drag racing, you can start saving up for more suspension parts like a front sway bar or some frame bracing. A couple years ago I bought UMI's sway bars (before they had the pro-tour/drag style rear bar) and they greatly reduce body roll. Not too expensive if you just buy the front one, especially during a holiday sale. Beware though: it's not uncommon for G-Body front sway bar bolts to strip out. I had one pop out on me during a joy ride. I've since re-threaded the holes for larger fine-thread bolts and I haven't had a problem with them since (and that's with plenty of abusive cornering).

 

[hy82e]

Thanks for the input guys. #3 is definitely an attractive option. Especially sinse the cost matches a quality lowering spring and shock combo and i need bith.

307Regal, I hope you are not messing up your new shocks pushing on the car like that. You have to make engine noises while doing it or you don't get proper break in 😀 I hear you on waiting out for a sale that's why I'm trying to have all the parts picked out now. Thanks for the tip on the sway bar. I assume it was at the bushing you had the issue right?

 

[UMI Performance]

I agree with post #3 being a good option. To be honest, the UB upper a-arms will give you no benefit. I don't think they move any caster settings? So if this is true there is no need for them.

You could also split the difference on the tall ball joints and go tall uppers only, this would add 1/2" of spindle height which drastically increases camber gain.

The coil over kit gives you front end height changes and spring rate options. With the Moog springs you will be at stock height, is that okay with you? Also do you know if the 6.0 is heavier than the standard SBC? Keep this in mind if it is to get a heavier front spring.

Hope that information helps,
Ryan

 

[307 Regal]

307Regal, I hope you are not messing up your new shocks pushing on the car like that. You have to make engine noises while doing it or you don't get proper break in 😀 I hear you on waiting out for a sale that's why I'm trying to have all the parts picked out now. Thanks for the tip on the sway bar. I assume it was at the bushing you had the issue right?

I forgot the engine noises!! :shock: 😛
I gave it a proper test run today and I really am happy with them. On a moderate handling setting I was very pleased with them. I was even more pleased to find out that on the low settings I got back all of my ride quality. 8) Best of both worlds. Now I just need to get the fronts put in.
On the sway bar, one of the frame bolts popped out (just to make sure we're not talking about the end links). The mount got all bent up but I was able to bend it back with the help of my dad and his torch skills. Probably could've just bought a new one. To be safe, I would recommend re-threading the frame beforehand.

 

[hy82e]

307Regal glad you are having good results keep us posted on the fronts. I'm liking the Viking option more and more. Made in the USA, and a decent warranty. Lifetime on the springs and 2 years on the shocks.

Ryan's thanks for adding to the thread. If I do decide to go coilovers you guys are in my sights.

Moog springs require some knowledge and guess work. And in some cases a mix between trimming and rate to get the right effect, but after ALL that you end up with a decent spring. The cost of going "cheap".

Same thing with UB arms. They can build them at different offsets. I thought, and someone please correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought that can help adjust caster. But I admit I need to do more homework there as well. Again "cheap" is not always easy. Safety will be the deal breaker with this option. Which leads me to:
I should have explained my thinking behind my #2 package. Its easier to change the upper ball joint than the lower after everything is put back together. So that would be something I could come back later and do when I'm not trying to fund the whole build. And also the money saved could be applied to upgrade to the Howe lower ball joint and the add the Howe to the uppers later when I'm not trying to put the whole car together.