G body shuffle

Rt Jam

G-Body Guru
Mar 30, 2020
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Ontario Canada
Got any pics?
The original lower control arm has a flat surface to mount the sway bar to. I'm sure it would bolt up but flat to round places the entire load on the fasteners.
 

69hurstolds

Geezer
Supporting Member
Jan 2, 2006
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Got any pics?
The original lower control arm has a flat surface to mount the sway bar to. I'm sure it would bolt up but flat to round places the entire load on the fasteners.
Easy fix. You could weld bosses up on the mount points. Similar to this UMI bar below. More work than it's worth, perhaps.

1693134069762.png


TBH, I'd get the sway bar mounting to the axle and frame somewhere for maximum effect if that's the goal.
 
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403Olds

G-Body Guru
May 31, 2014
535
427
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South Central Ohio
The "Jeff bar" is pretty easy to make. Just tying the rear frame rails makes a huge difference, even with just a piece of angle bolted to the bumper supports.
 
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Rt Jam

G-Body Guru
Mar 30, 2020
595
590
93
Ontario Canada
Thanks for the pics but I think I'd try the weld that adaptor 69 mentioned before I went flat to round. Just does not seem long lasting.
That UMI bar mounts different. My holes are horizontal.

What is this huge difference 403Olds? So the back frame is moving enough where this bar strengthens it but the bumper does not?

I'm going to aim for the axle mount. Blazer style but it will be the last addition since the panhard and tail pipes come first.
 

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403Olds

G-Body Guru
May 31, 2014
535
427
63
South Central Ohio
Thanks for the pics but I think I'd try the weld that adaptor 69 mentioned before I went flat to round. Just does not seem long lasting.
That UMI bar mounts different. My holes are horizontal.

What is this huge difference 403Olds? So the back frame is moving enough where this bar strengthens it but the bumper does not?

I'm going to aim for the axle mount. Blazer style but it will be the last addition since the panhard and tail pipes come first.

The bumper shock absorber's don't really tie the rear frames together. Tying the lower mounts, makes the tails of the frame resist twisting. If you've ever seen the schwartz performance youtube video, where they show how flimsy the stock chassis is, it helps to show what is happening. Does it make it a Pro-Touring? No, but for some scrap and a half an hour, it makes a more planted ride going down the road. Worst case, you lost 30 minutes of time. I've made several, anyone I've changed out have been impressed.
 

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scoti

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Sep 5, 2019
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Thanks for the pics but I think I'd try the weld that adaptor 69 mentioned before I went flat to round. Just does not seem long lasting.
That UMI bar mounts different. My holes are horizontal.

What is this huge difference 403Olds? So the back frame is moving enough where this bar strengthens it but the bumper does not?

I'm going to aim for the axle mount. Blazer style but it will be the last addition since the panhard and tail pipes come first.
How much road time do you have on your T/A set-up? Is it based off of the later 3rd/4th GEN F-body or something else?

If it's based off the F-body, I'd copy that rear sway-bar mounting arrangement before tying the lower trailing arms down w/the sway-bar since that g-body arrangement limits articulation.
 
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Rt Jam

G-Body Guru
Mar 30, 2020
595
590
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Ontario Canada
That's a good point on the bumper shocks. Mine is no longer a shock. While I agree our frames move around, they are strengthened alot when bolted to a body with poly bushings. Even if they are not that strong. They do not need to be way at the back of the car behind the rear suspension. The suspension area being solid is good enough for me. Look at the beef between the 2 rear tires. As you can tell from my bumper shocks. Weight is a bit of concern so bracing the entire car will be considered with caution. I want it strong but not at the expense of extra weight.

The road time on the torque arm set up is zero. The car is at the build stage. The rear is a 12 bolt center for an F body with G body ends from Moser Engineering. UMI lower control arms with roto joints. No upper arms and a long F body style torque arm.

At this point, not even sure if a my original GN bar will fit since the stock arms are thicker which would make my arms mounting surface further away. Plus as mentioned flat onto round does give me confidence in a good connection. The F body sway will be considered scoti, thanks.
 

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scoti

Royal Smart Person
Sep 5, 2019
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That's a good point on the bumper shocks. Mine is no longer a shock. While I agree our frames move around, they are strengthened alot when bolted to a body with poly bushings. Even if they are not that strong. They do not need to be way at the back of the car behind the rear suspension. The suspension area being solid is good enough for me. Look at the beef between the 2 rear tires. As you can tell from my bumper shocks. Weight is a bit of concern so bracing the entire car will be considered with caution. I want it strong but not at the expense of extra weight.

The road time on the torque arm set up is zero. The car is at the build stage. The rear is a 12 bolt center for an F body with G body ends from Moser Engineering. UMI lower control arms with roto joints. No upper arms and a long F body style torque arm.

At this point, not even sure if a my original GN bar will fit since the stock arms are thicker which would make my arms mounting surface further away. Plus as mentioned flat onto round does give me confidence in a good connection. The F body sway will be considered scoti, thanks.
I would lean toward the S10 sway-bar (or similar that has adjustability) since your set-up is an f-body/g-body mix.
 
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