gravity bleeding brakes

[scarborough]

will attempt to gravity bleed my brake system on the cutlass. i read this the easiest way to bleed your. as part of the restoration process i removed the brake booster with master cylinder still attached. now reinstalled the brakes needs bleeding,this is my first time trying to bleed brakes. i have watch a couple video on YouTube on gravity bleeding, not sure if the car has to sit level when doing this are does it have to be a little higher on the end you are working on (front --- back) so if anyone on the form has ever done this and their is anything i need to be careful of when attempt this i would appreciate your comments..... installed my new american eagle aluminum radiator rated 600 hp on the 455 it's keeping it a lot cooler. it did get up to about 195+degrees but under 200 while sit idling (as if stuck in traffic) when press on the throttle it did start to drop. i think will replace the thermostat....also changed the lower hose it's not collapsing like before...i'm happy one less problem

 

[azmusclecar]

I've done gravity bleeding technique many times since I work alone. I tried the hose from the brake bleeder into a bottle of fluid
and pump to bleed the brakes. But if I am around the car doing things I just use the gravity method.
I usually just crack the bleeder, attach the hose and bleed it via gravity into a bottle and when I see clear, I close the bleeder and done.

I usually make sure my car is level..............the master cylinder needs and usually is ABOVE the brake lines so that is the gravity pushing/pulling
the fluid down the line to the opening or bleeder in each wheel.

 

[565bbchevy]

I use the "Club" steering wheel lock as my one man brake bleeder, I pump the brakes a couple times and then on the final pump I position the club against my seat and the brake pedal and push the club all the way down to lock the pedal in position and when you are done bleeding that wheel turn the key to release it.

 

[79 USA 1]

Always gravity bled brakes working with my Dad.
Start at the wheel furthest away from the master cylinder (Right Rear), overfill the master cylinder, crack open the bleeders one at a time, (Right Rear, Left Rear, Right Front, Left Front) until you have fluid flow.
We always finished by pump bleeding them just to be sure.



565bbchevy....I like the club idea.

 

[Local Hero]

Pressure bleeding you have to crack one at a time. Gravity, you can crack them all at once. Just make sure you don't let the master cylinder run empty.

 

[fleming442]

I was never satisfied with a gravity bleed. I do gravity followed by a pressure bleed.

 

[roger1]

I've had several bleeders over the years.
Bought this one last year and it's by far the best I've ever used:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OM751EC/?tag=gbody-20

 

[64nailhead]

i removed the brake booster with master cylinder still attached.

You should bleed the master prior to bleeding the brakes at the wheel ends. I chased a spongy brake pedal on another car due to not bleeding the master after it was removed and reinstalled. It was truly frustrating. Other than that, I've gravity almost every brake on every old car I work on - with good success.

 

[ed1948]

I use the gravity bleed whenever the system has no air in it. There are times when pressure bleeding is the only way to clear the air bubbles.

 

[azmusclecar]

You should bleed the master prior to bleeding the brakes at the wheel ends. I chased a spongy brake pedal on another car due to not bleeding the master after it was removed and reinstalled. It was truly frustrating. Other than that, I've gravity almost every brake on every old car I work on - with good success.

I learned all about "Bench Bleeding" a mastyer cylinder after chasing a soft pedal........so I know what you mean................