Hi,we are new to the site. Also,first time owners of a gbody.Our car is a bone stock 1979 olds cutlass supreme.We will be gutting the cutty to make it a drag car. It has the all powerful 260 v-8 with the metric trans in it.:/.The plan is to put a 383 sbc with a th-350.rear end is undecided as off now...We need help on so many levels.Where do we put the motor mounts/will the th-350 fit in regular location. Best rear control arms to buy. We are doing this as father/son project car. We are trying the budget route...We just bought the car last week for $1000..the trunk lid had some rust pretty bad...Just got a trunk lid today for $30.so now, we are good ..as far as body..I would like to sell as much stuff as possible whatever we take out. Not trying to get rich.Just want the items to go to a home not the scrap yard. We are in southern California. So,the engine and trans will need to be picked up. The rest we will ship out...Thanks for any help. Mike.
hi everyone
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The SBC mounts bolt in at the top/front set of holes in the 'K' member. Your chassis is already drilled - note that one hole of four on the rubber mounts hangs over and does not get a bolt.
When you search for a pair of motor mount shells for the block, make sure to source them from a car - several Forum members ran into issues with truck shells being 'too tall'.
The TH200 and TH350 share the same trans mount, but you will likely want a double-hump crossmember. I use to rave about Jeg's crossmembers until I bought their TH400 model to put a 200-4R in a Malibu. The TH350 model it replaced was made from 1-1/2 x 2-1/2 square tube - the TH400 model is made from lighter 1-1/2 x 2" tube, and does not fit under the driver's floorboard (by a long shot). Get the $250 one from Gforce, since you'll be hammering on it anyway.
For the rear control arms, I've seen a lot of commentary that the GM four-link setup really needs rubber bushings in order not to bind. The consensus I'll pass on to you is to, at minimum, get upper arms with a spherical rod end. And, you didn't ask, but go directly to a Ford 9" rear axle. If you get serious enough to back-half the car, then a true four-link system with panhard bar or Watts link plus coilovers is in your future, and the Ford 9" housing can be remarketed - keep the drop-out and go with a narrowed axle.
Others that do heavy drag racing should weigh in.
When you search for a pair of motor mount shells for the block, make sure to source them from a car - several Forum members ran into issues with truck shells being 'too tall'.
The TH200 and TH350 share the same trans mount, but you will likely want a double-hump crossmember. I use to rave about Jeg's crossmembers until I bought their TH400 model to put a 200-4R in a Malibu. The TH350 model it replaced was made from 1-1/2 x 2-1/2 square tube - the TH400 model is made from lighter 1-1/2 x 2" tube, and does not fit under the driver's floorboard (by a long shot). Get the $250 one from Gforce, since you'll be hammering on it anyway.
For the rear control arms, I've seen a lot of commentary that the GM four-link setup really needs rubber bushings in order not to bind. The consensus I'll pass on to you is to, at minimum, get upper arms with a spherical rod end. And, you didn't ask, but go directly to a Ford 9" rear axle. If you get serious enough to back-half the car, then a true four-link system with panhard bar or Watts link plus coilovers is in your future, and the Ford 9" housing can be remarketed - keep the drop-out and go with a narrowed axle.
Others that do heavy drag racing should weigh in.
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wow,thanks for the quick reply🙂 the plan is to run somewhere in the 11 second range and bracket race it..I already have a real fast car.Just want a good bracket car to have fun in.My son is 16 years old.Bracket races is everyday car,1998 Pontiac trans am,but I don't want to beat that car up.That's why we bought this car🙂I thank you for your information ss696.It is much appreactiated. I am looking forward to this site for helpful people such as yourself.Thanks again,Mike
Quick question, I saw the picture you sent.Thats a regular motor mount,Right? Have you or anyone else run a solid motor mount? Any part number on the motor mount you have...Chassis and engine?Thanks again
These are just generic OEM rubber mounts. Under the sniff test, I'd say they were made with Chinese coal-tar rubber. Before you go to full-on solid motor mounts, consider urethane ones. The style used in 78-88 G-bodies (OEM and aftermarket) has a captured metal reinforcement, so you'll never rip one completely free. Not being a drag racer, I am not sure what part number to offer, but Summit Racing has a deent search engine. You should be able to figure it out between chassis.model year/engine type.
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