I need to at least make this car as fast................

[85Caballero350]

My daily driver,a 2006 Tiburon.It's turboed with a TD04 13G turbo,similar to a WRX turbo.Running 10psi with 187whp and 223wtq.Not impressive but it's a 4 cylinder that came stock with 120whp and 123wtq.This car should be in the 13sec territory if traction could be had.Bleh you guys dont want to hear that crap about imports,I know.My best time was a [email protected] as proven by my timeslip.Im on the left.

What will I need to do to get my G-body in that area.Mods are as follows.
SB 350 with a 600 cfm edelbrock,performer eps intake,dynomax longtube headers and a open air filter.Trans is a th350 and has a open diff with I think 2.29 gears or 2.43(either way is disgusting).I have a performer cam kit sitting in the house,I just need to get the timing chain and valve springs so I don't have a catastrophe.
I can't bear to have a weekend toy thats slower than my DD.

 

[Vern]

Well the first priority should be that rear. If you want this to be a street car and not a drag car with that 3 speed I would say 3.23s or 3.42s with a taller tire. Depending on the cam and your willingness to stay off the Interstate maybe 3.73s with like a 275/60/15. If she is running well that alone with traction should get you in the ballpark of a 14.5.

 

[85 Cutlass Brougham]

Well,first off congrats on getting an overlooked platform turbo'd. The Tib is one of the better looking new cars out there IMHO. I am just a little curious as to what you are running for engine management. I imagine an FMU could work for the fuel, but I didn't think cars built after 1998 had a return style fuel system due to evaporative emissions regs. That's a stock turbo off a 1G DSM, isn't it? Anyhow, back to your question. You should be able to get into the low 14's with a swap to a better gear, at least a 3.23. As for other things, it all depends on what heads and compression you are running. The cam you have is very mild and I would consider stepping it up to something like the Comp XE262 I have. It idles like stock and has great low end torque. It also has a wide Lobe Separation Angle (LSA) which contributes to good idle quality because of better low RPM cylinder pressure. You also will need a good enough exhaust system to flow about 300-350hp worth of air. The stock single 2.25in setup will not cut it. Finally, I would also consider a good budget set of heads like the Vortec heads or maybe try to find a used set of S/R torquers-depending on what castings are on it now. Anything from the 80's or late 70's ( Other than L82 heads) will be useless since they are very restrictive because of ill advised emissions and fuel economy stop gap measures that GM took during that time. You should be in the 13's easy with these mods, proper tuning and enough traction.A minimum of a 245 section width tire will get you there as long as you have proper gearing and an LSD.

 

[85Caballero350]

Well,first off congrats on getting an overlooked platform turbo'd. The Tib is one of the better looking new cars out there IMHO. I am just a little curious as to what you are running for engine management. I imagine an FMU could work for the fuel, but I didn't think cars built after 1998 had a return style fuel system due to evaporative emissions regs. That's a stock turbo off a 1G DSM, isn't it? Anyhow, back to your question. You should be able to get into the low 14's with a swap to a better gear, at least a 3.23. As for other things, it all depends on what heads and compression you are running. The cam you have is very mild and I would consider stepping it up to something like the Comp XE262 I have. It idles like stock and has great low end torque. It also has a wide Lobe Separation Angle (LSA) which contributes to good idle quality because of better low RPM cylinder pressure. You also will need a good enough exhaust system to flow about 300-350hp worth of air. The stock single 2.25in setup will not cut it. Finally, I would also consider a good budget set of heads like the Vortec heads or maybe try to find a used set of S/R torquers-depending on what castings are on it now. Anything from the 80's or late 70's ( Other than L82 heads) will be useless since they are very restrictive because of ill advised emissions and fuel economy stop gap measures that GM took during that time. You should be in the 13's easy with these mods, proper tuning and enough traction.A minimum of a 245 section width tire will get you there as long as you have proper gearing and an LSD.

Thanks man.Right now I am utilizing the Uni-chip for fuel management.It retains the 4 stock 190 cc injectors and a single 650 cc injector right before the TB.The 4 cylinder Tib has a returnless fuel system so that kinda hampers big numbers unless I run a line back to the fuel tank which is in the works.But to the other car.Right now im running open headers.I will be running purple hornies right off the headers,that should flow quite well 🙂
For the heads,I have a set of 78-84? castings I believe.I know that they are worthless but that can be fixed with a swap.How hard is it to set up a rear? I have never done a rear before.I dont want to eat the gears up.I would really like a set of 275's in the rear but do not know if it is possible without rolling the fenders and if so,what kind of ballpark price would fender rolling should I expect.Thanks for the help fellows

 

[illregal82]

those purple hornies are loud i have a set . i got pulled over a couple time for them.

 

[N.O.S SS]

275`s will tuck nicely under your car with 3 1/2" offset rear wheels.(i run them on my car).As for the rear,your best bet is to have somebody set your rear up for you who knows how to shim it right.They are a giant pain in the a**,and require a special tool (Cant remember what they call it) to measure in thousands the lash on the gears.

 

[Vern]

I agree with NOS SS sometimes you can slap them in get lucky and it meshes right but it is a bad bet. Fairly freequenly if you are patient enough you can through a JY computer search a rear out of a MCSS. If so you can usually buy it reasonably because its only a 7.5 or 7.625 rear but it comes with either a 3.42 or a 3.73 and sometimes a posi. Changing a rear drmb to drub is an easy straight forward deal and requires no special tools. The catch is IF you are building something to go faster than say 12.50s even with a support cover you will eventually get into repairs and aftermarket posi & axels etc trying to get it to hold up and it becomes cost prohibitive as you could find an a better 8.5 or set up 12" or ford 9 for about the same money.

I run 275s on two cars never had to do any inner fender mods but if your backspacing is wrong you might. If so I have seen the roll a baseball bat holding the bat with someone backing the car work quick & easy with no outer fender changes but its an at your own risk type thing.

 

[85 Cutlass Brougham]

I got my 3.23 axle with open diff for $50 at the local U pull It yard. A posi is about the same, if you find one in they yard, just swap it before you go to check out. They won't pull the diff cover.