JRP's Unofficially, Official Regal Thread

MrSony

MrSony

Comic Book Super Hero
Nov 15, 2014
4,023
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Des Moines, Iowa
#82
Specifically, they are gonna-

-Check EVERYTHING
-Mag the block
-Clean the block
-Hone, bore only if necessary
-Check and clean the rods,
-Recondition the rods if necessary
-Clean, mag and polish the crank
-Custom Grind the crank only if necessary
-Remove the old pistons, install the new ones (planning on using cast 10:1 pistons from TA)
-Balance the Rotating Assembly, balancer to flexplate
-degree the cam
-new freeze and pipe plugs
-recondition the harmonic balancer

This machinist at this shop seemed pretty cool, I didn't feel like he was trying to sell me anything. I trust his judgment, if he says something does or doesn't need done, or I should or shouldn't do something, I think I can trust him.
Make sure you instill in him the bearing clearances be set right. No more than .0025. Sweet spot is .002, but there's leeway available. Also point out the lifter valley casting flash. Sounds like a plan man.
 
joesregalproject

joesregalproject

Royal Smart Person
Nov 4, 2012
2,411
987
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Pittsburgh, PA
#83
I think you'll be more than satisfied with the results.
I agree. Even though it may cost me a little more than I wanted to spend, in the I will have the engine that I've really wanted all along, built the way I wanted, I know it will be done correctly and I won't have to stress over getting it together myself.

Make sure you instill in him the bearing clearances be set right. No more than .0025. Sweet spot is .002, but there's leeway available. Also point out the lifter valley casting flash. Sounds like a plan man.
I'll be sure to mention it to him. And yeah I'll tell him to remove the flashing in the lifters valley. Buick got sloppy there with these castings. This 72 isn't as bad as my 76 though.
 
joesregalproject

joesregalproject

Royal Smart Person
Nov 4, 2012
2,411
987
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Pittsburgh, PA
#85
I dropped off the block, rods and pistons, the crankshaft and the timing cover as well as all the stuff I bought from TA performance at the machine shop today. The machinist Bob said it should be about a week and a half for him to clean, measure, check and mag everything.
 
MrSony

MrSony

Comic Book Super Hero
Nov 15, 2014
4,023
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Des Moines, Iowa
#86
Coolio. While the car is still engineless, I'd take this time to modify the heater box. Look at blake442s thread.
https://gbodyforum.com/threads/buick-3-8-thm200-to-buick-350-th-350-swap.30492/page-6
There's a little bit more room than you think, and I think that wagons body bushings were wasted. I have more room than that. You can use your 76's valve covers, they're marginally shorter. The 72 rockers are taller, make sure they fit if you don't use your '76 rockers.
 
joesregalproject

joesregalproject

Royal Smart Person
Nov 4, 2012
2,411
987
113
Pittsburgh, PA
#87
Coolio. While the car is still engineless, I'd take this time to modify the heater box. Look at blake442s thread.
https://gbodyforum.com/threads/buick-3-8-thm200-to-buick-350-th-350-swap.30492/page-6
There's a little bit more room than you think, and I think that wagons body bushings were wasted. I have more room than that. You can use your 76's valve covers, they're marginally shorter. The 72 rockers are taller, make sure they fit if you don't use your '76 rockers.

Good idea, I plan on doing several things to prep the engine bay while the engine is at the machine shop, including modifying the heater box. I've read Blake's thread a few times over, it's a great writeup. I really like the way that Brian (307 Regal) modified his A/C box to delete the A/C. I may go for something like that or maybe something a bit more reversible of I ever decide I want A/C again.
 
MrSony

MrSony

Comic Book Super Hero
Nov 15, 2014
4,023
1,584
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Des Moines, Iowa
#88
Good idea, I plan on doing several things to prep the engine bay while the engine is at the machine shop, including modifying the heater box. I've read Blake's thread a few times over, it's a great writeup. I really like the way that Brian (307 Regal) modified his A/C box to delete the A/C. I may go for something like that or maybe something a bit more reversible of I ever decide I want A/C again.
The 231 bracket bolts right on. With the ability to re mount the compressor, I'd go with the reversible option, just pulling the evap core and plugging the hole in the box.
 
MrSony

MrSony

Comic Book Super Hero
Nov 15, 2014
4,023
1,584
113
Des Moines, Iowa
#89
Make the alterations to the box though with everything in it. Suck to find out after all that work your evap or heater core won't fit anymore. Leave an air gap around them as well. it's mainly the corner where the heater core is that needs clearanced, as you can see from blake442's thread.
 
joesregalproject

joesregalproject

Royal Smart Person
Nov 4, 2012
2,411
987
113
Pittsburgh, PA
#90
I went today and bought a rebuild kit for my Q-Jet and put it back together. AutoZone had a Sorenson kit in stock for $17 so that's what I went with. I hear they aren't the greatest kits but it certainly should be better than what was in it. It came with an ethanol resistant accelerator pump cup and spring, new gaskets, plus the other standard stuff. Still need to replace the choke pull offs and the fuel filter. It'll probably need some adjustment, but it should at least be functional now. Considering it was filled with mud and looked like it was sitting at the bottom of a lake, I'm happy with it. Once I get my engine back, we'll see how it runs.

img_20181023_142026047-2672x2004-jpg.99861

img_20181119_192739215_burst000_cover_top-2672x2004-jpg.99860
 

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