OK. So I have a 1980 GP that has a 265VB/TH 200 in it. I am going over to a GM 350 crate engine w/ a 700R4. I have my work cut out for me though that's for sure.
Tips:
Remove the nose and radiator support - The amount of room you have is great to work especially if you have to pull the PS pump and AC compressor because they are staying on the car. If you have a hard time removing the bushings that hold the radiator support in place, put a floor jack under it and lift up, loosen the fenders a little too.
Wiring - remove the winshield wiper motor, 3 bolts, the bottom one is the hardest to get to but use a universal and a couple of short extensions. The foward engine and lamp harness is there, one bolt and it's off. The harness seperates into two pieces. One goes w/ the motor, the other to all the lighting for the front. Take the lighting harness off w/ the radiator support, put it to the side. The engine wiring is best transferred when the motor is out of the car. You'll have to disconnect a harness for the air conditioning but that's it. Since I have an emissions motor now, alot of the wiring will be useless but still.
Transmission, well I think I disconeccted the driveshaft at the rear end by removing the bolts from the bearings that hold the yoke to the rear. I am taking the driveshaft with everything in one shot cause it's going to have to be either shortened or replaced for the new transmission. The column shift was pretty easy as was the speedometer cable. DO NOT remove the trans cooler lines, they will come out with the engine. Also, leave the kick down cable and any vacumn lines, they won't get in the way
Fuel lines - No clue as to why the fuel pump has a return line for a carbuerated engine. There is also a line going to the charcoal canister but I will leave that.
Exhaust - cut the Y pipe with a sawzall blade - I used the crafstman crap and I broke 2 blades in 5 minutes. Also, cut the pipes to and from the catalyitc converter and leave it mounted to the crossmember, you can take it off when you pull the crossmember as I am about to do.
Lifting the engine - well I have attached one chain to the head where the PS pump was, thread it all the way in, put a big washer around the chain. On the back end it's hard to find a bolt hole to plug into but since I am taking the trans w/ it, there's what seems to be a factory lifting point (is it?)cast right into the bellhousing, put the chain on the underside of this with a fresh bolt with the head facing the floor along with a washer. remove the oil filter first. I would suggest a floor jack under the transmission at some point too.
I am going over to a chevy V8, do I move the motor mounts on the frame at all or do I leave them? I see a few holes there but until I pull the engine i won't know for sure what to do, any ideas???
Hope I helped, hope I am not crazy ! lol. D
Dirty work too by the way, prepare to take multiple showers. This engine wasn't started since 2000. I was surprised I didn't have a bigger problem with stubborn fasteners but liquid wrench and a breaker bar help.
Some of the fasteners are metric, especially the body, and most of the stuff for the engine and transmission are 5/8" it seems.
Tips:
Remove the nose and radiator support - The amount of room you have is great to work especially if you have to pull the PS pump and AC compressor because they are staying on the car. If you have a hard time removing the bushings that hold the radiator support in place, put a floor jack under it and lift up, loosen the fenders a little too.
Wiring - remove the winshield wiper motor, 3 bolts, the bottom one is the hardest to get to but use a universal and a couple of short extensions. The foward engine and lamp harness is there, one bolt and it's off. The harness seperates into two pieces. One goes w/ the motor, the other to all the lighting for the front. Take the lighting harness off w/ the radiator support, put it to the side. The engine wiring is best transferred when the motor is out of the car. You'll have to disconnect a harness for the air conditioning but that's it. Since I have an emissions motor now, alot of the wiring will be useless but still.
Transmission, well I think I disconeccted the driveshaft at the rear end by removing the bolts from the bearings that hold the yoke to the rear. I am taking the driveshaft with everything in one shot cause it's going to have to be either shortened or replaced for the new transmission. The column shift was pretty easy as was the speedometer cable. DO NOT remove the trans cooler lines, they will come out with the engine. Also, leave the kick down cable and any vacumn lines, they won't get in the way
Fuel lines - No clue as to why the fuel pump has a return line for a carbuerated engine. There is also a line going to the charcoal canister but I will leave that.
Exhaust - cut the Y pipe with a sawzall blade - I used the crafstman crap and I broke 2 blades in 5 minutes. Also, cut the pipes to and from the catalyitc converter and leave it mounted to the crossmember, you can take it off when you pull the crossmember as I am about to do.
Lifting the engine - well I have attached one chain to the head where the PS pump was, thread it all the way in, put a big washer around the chain. On the back end it's hard to find a bolt hole to plug into but since I am taking the trans w/ it, there's what seems to be a factory lifting point (is it?)cast right into the bellhousing, put the chain on the underside of this with a fresh bolt with the head facing the floor along with a washer. remove the oil filter first. I would suggest a floor jack under the transmission at some point too.
I am going over to a chevy V8, do I move the motor mounts on the frame at all or do I leave them? I see a few holes there but until I pull the engine i won't know for sure what to do, any ideas???
Hope I helped, hope I am not crazy ! lol. D
Dirty work too by the way, prepare to take multiple showers. This engine wasn't started since 2000. I was surprised I didn't have a bigger problem with stubborn fasteners but liquid wrench and a breaker bar help.
Some of the fasteners are metric, especially the body, and most of the stuff for the engine and transmission are 5/8" it seems.
