Could someone please post pics showing where they notched the frame on a g-Body car for the A/C compressor lines & for the stock LS1 oil pan to clear. Thanks!
Need g-body LSX Frame no
- Thread starter Veltboy618
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You'll have to specify which stock LS1 oil pan.
I can only speak for truck accessories, and my truck oil pan fit without any cutting of anything. For the LS1 A/C compressor to have fit in it's original location the passenger framerail would have to have had 80 -90% cut out. This obviously is not feasable so I have no A/C.
Want pics lemme know
I can only speak for truck accessories, and my truck oil pan fit without any cutting of anything. For the LS1 A/C compressor to have fit in it's original location the passenger framerail would have to have had 80 -90% cut out. This obviously is not feasable so I have no A/C.
Want pics lemme know
I just realized the cutlass we modified to fit the ac compressor was an lt1, on the several ls1/lsx motors ive installed with my bro, ac wasn't used... most people that use ac either make a bracket or buy a bracket... if you buy one, you may have to use their ac compressor, as far as notching the frame, if you really want to run ac down there, you may have to put the motor in and mark the frame yourself... I know when we test fit the ac in the few we were doing, it was going to require more work than they wanted to pay for... for us to do it right, which is to cut the frame and box it back in, so you dont lose integrity and it looks clean, in conclusion, if you want to run ac, you may wanna just get the kwik stuff, or find it used
the bracket set up is $197 new, then you could find the compressor used, or for a reasonable price... as far as notching it, the best way to get this done, is to set the motor in place and pull out the plasma or 4" cutting disk and mark and cut, when it clears, box it all back in and reinforce it...
the bracket set up is $197 new, then you could find the compressor used, or for a reasonable price... as far as notching it, the best way to get this done, is to set the motor in place and pull out the plasma or 4" cutting disk and mark and cut, when it clears, box it all back in and reinforce it...
I'm following this guy, as far as the A/C goes anyhow. He has a nice write up (truck accessories):
http://www.maliburacing.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=34
I grabbed a bracket from u-pull-r-parts for $15 and got a new Caprice compressor off ebay. Still haven't gotten to doing the fitment though, so I can't tell you how well it works. It does put the compressor near the stock location though.
Keep in mind, the s-10 is not the only vehicle with this bracket. We spent an hour finding an s-10 and digging the bracket out, and there was a half ton v6 chevy right near the entrance with the same bracket just hanging there. Would've taken 2 minutes to pull.
I just drew a picture on paper and brought it with to be sure.
http://www.maliburacing.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=34
I grabbed a bracket from u-pull-r-parts for $15 and got a new Caprice compressor off ebay. Still haven't gotten to doing the fitment though, so I can't tell you how well it works. It does put the compressor near the stock location though.
Keep in mind, the s-10 is not the only vehicle with this bracket. We spent an hour finding an s-10 and digging the bracket out, and there was a half ton v6 chevy right near the entrance with the same bracket just hanging there. Would've taken 2 minutes to pull.
I just drew a picture on paper and brought it with to be sure.
I am thinking of going with the CTS-V oil pan for my LS swap.. As for a/c i am not running it for now.. I think i read somewhere that if you used the the 1in setback plates that would provide clearance for the stock f body oil pan, and power steering and a/c but i would require heater box clearancing.Not to mention the header fitments.... 
Who is running the BRP kit?
Who is running the BRP kit?
It all depends on what mounts you are using. I think the setback ones you will need to notch quite a bit off the frame. The BRP ones supposedly will fit with the stock F-body compressor.Veltboy618 said:
http://www.brphotrods.com/installguides/1GECK.pdf
85GPLef41 said:
I'm using the BRP mounts. I ditched the trans crossmember because it fits like garbage. The only headers that will work without extensive modification with the BRP mounts are the $800 BRP headers. Good thing I knew that before I got the BRP kit
With the setbacks you should be able to use the CTS-V Pacesetter F-body headers, or the cheap eBay ones with minimal mods. The heater box will require some work with those mounts. My BRP's let the cyl 8 wire sit right in the notch of the heater box without any mods.
BRP = cha ching!
I used the stock truck pan (already on motor) and the trans-Dapt motor mounts designed for an LS1 into a Chevy S10
I used the pacesetter headers and the stock truck accessories - my cost was $69 + $252 or $321 total
I used the stock truck pan (already on motor) and the trans-Dapt motor mounts designed for an LS1 into a Chevy S10
I used the pacesetter headers and the stock truck accessories - my cost was $69 + $252 or $321 total
85GPLef41 said:
I made a custom one out of some scrap steel channel. I bolted the engine in, attached the transmission and then figured out where the crossmember needed to be.
I've read that if your frame/body mount busings are old (practically everybody) then the gap closes and the aftermarket crossmembers are a pain in the butt to use. Also, they won't line up exactly because the LS1 mount location varies car to car.
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