i havent event put my rebuilt 350 sbc back into my car and i am already thinking nitrous. Just something to play with not to be a all out drag car or take a tremendous shot. i know there are post here about it but i want my own lol. Someone talk to me..ask questions..i need to figure out if i should or not but im DEFINITELY not trying to go back into the engine anytime soon.
nitrous. i want it!!!
- Thread starter Supreme79
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For street engine the main thing is don't get greedy, and never let it get too lean. If your engine is healthy it can handle 100-150 shot depending on many factors. Never buy cheap solonoids and verify they are working correctly. 2-3 seconds of N20 without additional gas and you'll be picking up pieces. Don't forget the driveline pieces either. I've run it since 1980 until 4-5 years ago, on cars, go karts and boats.
Go for it! Its a real blast!
I used a 50-100 hp plate kit by Edelbrock on my re ringed Low compression mild cam Buick 350. (in a 72 Buick Skylark Abody)
The Jetting they provide with the kit is safely rich. I used an inexpensive Carquest electric pump to supply the fuel solenoid and the mechanical to fuel the carb.
So when the nitrous arming switch was off, the car drove just like normal. Flip the arming switch and the electric pump pressurized up the fuel solenoid.
Then a microswitch that contacted the carb linkage at WOT was the trigger for the nitrous and additional fuel.
Lots of fun!
I went from 14.9s NA
to
13.5s on a 50 shot
and
12.9s @ 104mph on a 100 shot
I used a 50-100 hp plate kit by Edelbrock on my re ringed Low compression mild cam Buick 350. (in a 72 Buick Skylark Abody)
The Jetting they provide with the kit is safely rich. I used an inexpensive Carquest electric pump to supply the fuel solenoid and the mechanical to fuel the carb.
So when the nitrous arming switch was off, the car drove just like normal. Flip the arming switch and the electric pump pressurized up the fuel solenoid.
Then a microswitch that contacted the carb linkage at WOT was the trigger for the nitrous and additional fuel.
Lots of fun!
I went from 14.9s NA
to
13.5s on a 50 shot
and
12.9s @ 104mph on a 100 shot
With the fuel feed you need a regulator and a block depending on how you set it up. The no2 noid has one fuel feed to give the fuel while spraying.
You might need to set your timing lower and maybe change your plug heat range.
You might need to set your timing lower and maybe change your plug heat range.
Yep, so long as you're providing adequate pressure and volume such as what you did, or a really nice mechanical fuel pump. I had a fuel solenoid failure once and burnt a piston. After that I wired in a safety switch that shut down the main switch if the fuel solenoid failed. Modern units don't have a lot of problems with that but they are not immune. I started running old Marvin Miller systems when they were the only game in town.
If you want the most power from the combo a very free flowing exhaust is the biggest key, intake side not as important as the system provides the fuel/air. Often the most power can be had running exhaust that's actually a little big when running natural.
Supreme79 said:
I put a T in the rubber line that was right out of the gas tank, and used the original 3/8" solid fuel line for the original mechanical pump, and used a 1/4" solid line to bring fuel forward to the engine compartment for the fuel solenoid.
If I remember right, the 1/4" line may have formerly been the fuel return line of the OEM setup. I think I blocked off the return at the fuel pump and repurposed the solid line.
As was mentioned, a good quality mechanical pump can probably provide enough volume to handle running with a 50 or 100 shot. It can be calculated out.
But I added the electric pump to be sure I was covered, and to tie the fuel solenoid supply into the arming switch I used.
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