oily plugs

[justinowen]

Hi all,

'84 monte carlo, 229 v6 with either 103k or 203k miles

When I bought it recently it was idling really rough. It turned out the crankcase ventilation system wasn't operating well (perhaps lack of maintenance) and the evap canister was fuel soaked (perhaps topped off the fuel tank too much?) so I believe it has been running rich for a while (I even got an "exhaust rich" fault code while driving it home). I replace PCV valve, crankcase filter, air cleaner filter, and evap canister and now it idles well but it the exhaust smoke is blue under most conditions.

I got some photos of a cylinder and I am looking for some recommendations.
I'd like to get some more life out of this engine.

I pulled and plug and here are the photos I took of the combustion chamber.
Also, the plug gap should be 0.045 in (according to the emissions label) and this plug was at .067 in.

Thanks

 

[69hurstolds]

Combustion chambers actually don't look horrible, but blue exhaust smoke indicates oil burning.

Check to see if you're canister vent system is working properly. Sometimes the vapors that accumulate in the canister could pile up if not sucked into the engine. There's a vented bottom, but that's not the main goal.

I'd replace all the plugs with new ones gapped to the recommended 0.045". That 0.067 is way too much. You also have a spark plug ending in "SX" which means special gap with extended tip. Don't know if there's a bulletin out on 84 229 engines saying to use those, but your original numbers weren't an SX plug.

Your engine calls for R45TS spark plugs. GM p/n 5613957. If possible, always try to get the vintage old school AC spark plugs. I don't care if platinum this, or super-core that on the newer plugs. These cars in stock form perform well on the original style plugs even without all the newfangled designs/materials. Many times for less $$. For GOD'S sake don't waste money on Bosch crap unless it came from the factory. I'd use NGK plugs if I had to use something other than old style AC plugs, but you can never go wrong with the correct, old green-inked AC plugs.

$22 plus any tax delivered. Set of 6. Looks like he's accepting offers as well.

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[justinowen]

Ah, good to know.
The plug I pulled out is an ac delco R45TSX.

After I change the plugs and ensure the vanister vent is working, what do you think about the blue exhaust smoke and the oily plugs? Will a properly working PCV and EVAP system with correct plugs clean up the combustion chamber? Or do I need to use an additive for a while to recover?

EDIT:
interesting... looks like the preset gap on the r45ts plugs is 0.044 Inch (bang on to what the emissions label in the car says)
but the 445tsx it is 0.053 Inch.
so these plugs were likely gapped too far when they were installed... and it looks like they've been in there a long time.

 

[69hurstolds]

How many miles on this thing?

It all depends on the condition of the engine, especially cylinder rings, cylinder walls, and valve stems/seals. The oil could be getting sucked into the intakes by leaky valve stem seals or worn stems or guides. Also worn rings will allow too much oil to get onto the cylinder walls and burns off during combustion. It could also be your rings are worn to the point of blow-by is "pressurizing" the crankcase more easily and with the PCV system being goobered up with excess oil to the point of failure of the crankcase ventilation. And if you hadn't already, change the oil. If, for instance, you're using 10W-30, then keep using it. Don't go to a higher weight oil because you have to think about flowability around the bearings, not just piston rings and stem seals. If you get to the point where you have to start worrying about oil weights, then you're already in need of engine surgery.

Additives are band-aids. While it may be a temporary condition that MAY clear up with the PCV and other system restoration, keep monitoring both oil levels (look for usage, like 1/2 quart in 300 miles for example- too much), it could also be permanent, to which band-aids won't help but just delay the inevitable. You'll be FORCED to either rebuild what you have or made to choose a fresh V8 like a 383. 🙂

Sorry, too many variables to give you a sound answer on this, and too little facts are known here. One fact- combustion engines do not last forever. But with proper maintenance, they should last a good while. Unfortunately someone didn't take good care of yours like they should have.

 

[justinowen]

It has either 103k or 203k miles on it. Not sure how many times the odometer rolled over.
I just changed the oil and I put 10W-30 in it but i think the previous owner had 5W-30 in it.

I appreciate the advice.

 

[Clone TIE Pilot]

At the age the engine is at its very likely the valve stem seals are dried out. Eventually stem seals go bad either from miles or just time, and that engine has a good helping of both.

 

[justinowen]

At the age the engine is at its very likely the valve stem seals are dried out. Eventually stem seals go bad either from miles or just time, and that engine has a good helping of both.

I was wondering about that. If I do a compression check and a cylinder leak down check and they are acceptable, does that point to valve stem seals since they aren't needed for sealing the combustion chamber?

 

[spongbob]

Motors have notoriouse leaky intake gaskets(intakeing oil).pistons look too clean but even blacktop occasionally have worn rings...looks like ring wash to me be shure to use hastings(rings) and hone the crap out of it useing kerosene and old oil for a hone lube afterwards wash each cylinder out like 3 times with hot wash water ,powders and tide...befor reasembly seriously"...when positioning the top 2 rings place them all at.... top ring 2 oclock...2nd ring at 8 o'clock and the oil ring gap somewhere at 4 o'clock with the spirals at 2 and 6 with the 12 o'clock being( meaning) toward the cam closest..thanks