Oldsmobile headers that fit.

Status
Not open for further replies.

marcar1993

G-Body Guru
Aug 31, 2007
702
209
43
New Jersey
I'm looking for a new set of headers for my cutlass. Its currently a 350 will be a 403 again soon, but should be a sbo for as long as I can see. I have a cheap set of what I'm pretty sure are flowtechs. I got them used, and therefore pre dented to fit, though my fitment around the starter/header SUCKS even with a ministarter. Anyway, they were rusty when I got them, and now they're no better. I'm looking for a set for hopefully in the $200 range that might fit without mods, even better if the starter and header have some real clearance.
My options seem to be Hedman and flowtech. Anyone have any first hand experience with any of these lately? Maybe flowtech got better? Other inexpensive headers?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/big-1 ... oldsmobile
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hed-5 ... refilter=1

Thanks.
 
I actually have the hedman headers. They came with instructions on how theyre suppose to go in but the only thing I had to do was unbolt the motor mount on the passenger side and jack the engine up a bit to get it to go in..my complaint is that they angle outward..
 
I went with Flow tech for the price, well you get what you pay for. The fit was terrible. I sent them back thinking maybe I got a bad set. The second was just as bad, so I stepped up for a set of Hedmans. They slid right in, I did have to loosen the starter but was able still use the factory one. The right side does turn out at a angle that seems odd(Flow techs did to), The ceramic coating is very nice, you wont have to worry about rust any longer. O ya I have a 85 Salon with a 350 & 350 trans.
 
The Hedman headers seem to have less issues. Great part of full length is exhaust kits that bolt behind. The Hedman and Sanderson shorty are options too . The Sanderson headers allow a full size starter if the exhaust is bent right, straight back and have thick 3/8" gasket less flanges, 16 gauge tubing and don't rust like Flowtech. Mine were stupid easy to install, passenger side in from up top. Driver's side not much harder. Down side is custom exhaust and smaller 1 5/8" tubes. DoubleV got multiple bad sets, I got 3 good sets. Honestly American Racing headers are the only Olds G body headers worth buying. Hooker also makes SBO G body headers but are too pricey to consider.
 
I would recommend the Sanderson O351 headers. Theses are the headers that Olds307And403 is talking about above. They are truly the best shorty header that I've seen and are super easy to install. I would also recommend to make sure to order them with the ceramic coating option when you place your order. The last thing to mention about the O351 headers is the fact that I don't think that there are any good down pipe options available so you'll probably need to have a custom mandrel bent exhaust installed at a good shop.
 
I have Hedman's, and while I did have to switch to a mini starter and do some bit juggling to get the driver's side header in, I didn't have to coerce the headers with impact trauma to get them to fit so I consider it a net win. Plus they're cheap, but not Flowtech cheap.

Install consisted solely of putting the Cutlass on ramps and threading the header up from the bottom on the passenger side, and removing the starter, sliding in the header, bolting in the mini starter, then bolting on the header on the driver's side.
 
Agree completely on the O351 Sanderson's said above. The ceramic coating is very high quality.
 
Or better yet, get the Sanderson's uncoated and test them to see if they will actually fit without hitting the frame first. If they do fit, then fix all the holes in them from their piss-poor quality welding. Then grind out all of the welding slag inside the tubes. After that, THEN get them ceramic coated.

The rule for headers is simply this; aftermarket headers may or may not fit due to poor quality production. Going by the numbers, on the average ( and not suprisingly ) the cheaper the header the more fitment ( or other ) issues you will more likely have. So if you buy a set of cheapo Flowtechs, consider yourself lucky if they fit correctly or don't have any other undesirable side effects.
 
DoubleV said:
Or better yet, get the Sanderson's uncoated and test them to see if they will actually fit without hitting the frame first. If they do fit, then fix all the holes in them from their piss-poor quality welding. Then grind out all of the welding slag inside the tubes. After that, THEN get them ceramic coated.

I was actually waiting for you chime in with your opinion - Awesome. Haha
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

GBodyForum is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com. Amazon, the Amazon logo, AmazonSupply, and the AmazonSupply logo are trademarks of Amazon.com, Inc. or its affiliates.

Please support GBodyForum Sponsors

Classic Truck Consoles Dixie Restoration Depot UMI Performance

Contact [email protected] for info on becoming a sponsor