POR-15 Help

[kustomss]

I plan on painting my frame with POR-15 to keep it from rusting again. I only have surface rust but it just looks bad. The problem is, a few areas on my frame are perfectly bare metal where I scraped off the original undercoat. What should I do to those areas to make the POR stick>

 

[-83MONTESS-]

I used a real rough sand paper like 40-60 grit to sceuff it. Then buy the POR-15 prep solvent you wont regret it. I didnt buy the solvent when I did my the first time and a barely hit the painted area with a wrench and it took a good sized chip out of it. When you pour it into the cup only pour about a bottom full because this sh*t goes a long way. I did my entire engine bay and I still got probly 3/4 of the pint I bought. And one more thing, DO NOT GET IT ON YOUR SKIN!!!

 

[Intragration]

I've used POR15 extensively, I did try their cleaner and prep, my impression is that a good degreasing would work equally well. Coarse grit is a good idea, and x2 on the getting it on your skin. Don't get it on ANYTHING you don't want it on permanently. You have about 10 minutes to clean it off with alcohol, after which you're going to be looking at it for somewhere between a week and eternity.

 

[KapPartier]

So what kind of POR 15 can I use on my floor pans and trunk? Whats the best kind and process of doing it. What all can it be used on?

 

[axisg]

So what kind of POR 15 can I use on my floor pans and trunk? Whats the best kind and process of doing it. What all can it be used on?

They sell a great "trunk" kit that comes with everything you need. I used it had enough to do both floorpans top, and half of the the bottoms I did twice because I didn't clean the underside well enough. I cannot stress enough that you need to remove all the oil and grease. I got it "close-enough" on the underside and it peeled back in a sheet. Then I cleaned it really good and used the second tin and it came out great. I don't know what's in the "metal-prep" but it seems to make all the difference.

http://www.por15.com/FLOOR-PAN-TRUNK-KI ... nfo/FPTRK/

 

[bill]

X2 on what has been advised and Id like to add...if you are gonna spray this with a gun...use a respirator! and plenty of ventilation. I thought it would save some time, but its just too dangerous to your lungs to spray it...so I dont recommend it...

 

[G-Body_Vet]

I've used POR-15, Rust Bullet and KBS Coating. Like everyone else has said, it's all in the prep work.

Even though it claims you can "Paint Over Rust", the less rust you have the better. Get rid of any loose scale or flaky stuff especially.

Hands down, the best degreaser I've ever used is Aqua Kleen. A close 2nd is this stuff called Krud Kutter and it's cheaper.

The "metal preps" are all similar, basically phosphoric acid....a.k.a. rust converter. Besides converting rust, the purpose of "etching" the metal is to leave an iron phosphate film to promote paint adhesion. Other than chrome, I put everything I powdercoat through the same process.

Which takes me back to the less rust the better. The reason being is that it takes less time for the rust converter to do it's job. I freshly blasted part is good to go within minutes of being treated and rinsed. Something rusty as hell may take a few hours.

Here's a link to when I was working on my frame if it's of any help.
viewtopic.php?f=9&t=23273&start=300

 

[GhettoRacingKid]

IVe used por-15 pretty much on every part of my car so far including the chassis

I used the marine clean and the prep and ready and Ive sprayed and brushed.

The spray will get you alot farther but comes out differently then it being brushed on. I did about 4 coats on the bottom of the car, the trunk, and the engine bay. the parts ive brushed on like brackets and some panels is much darker and shiner.

i would hit the frame up with a wire wheel. use the marine clean and get it super clean, get it really dry and then use the prep and ready and then paint it the next day so its completely dry.


use a respirator, cover your skin. it takes about 5 days for it to come off your hands and about a month of constant scrubbing on other parts of your skin. the stuff is brutal

 

[bill]

Well stated GBV.... and I can only say that in my opinion, Por15 is an excellent and cost effective process for turning a rusty frame/underbody/trunk into a nice looking specimen....still, in my opinion, if you are going through the whole process of blasting, derusting, etc....you will be much happier with the results if you powder coated the frame. Floorpans and underbody would be too costly. Chassis black, the cheapest route, looks great on frames ... for about a season...then its time to clean and recoat. Por15 is a permanent fix, 99% of the time.

 

[-83MONTESS-]

Another thing is make sure that the area painted in POR-15 is not in direct sunlight. I have heard it grays so you'll want to topcoat it with some spray paint or something. I used semi gloss black duplicolor