I'm looking at upgrading to a set of summit's 1.6 stamped steel rocker arms since right now I'm running OE stamped steel rockers. I'm just looking at the added lift so I don't have to do a cam swap. If I got these rocker arms, would I have to swap out my push rods that I am using with my OE 1.5 rockers? What are the benefits to running a 1.6 rocker with the added lift?
I'm running a summit .442/.465 cam, 272/282 dur., and a 112 LSA.
The 1.6 rockers give you more lift. This allows more air to enter the cylinder. They also open the valves quicker than 1.5 ratio rockers. This increases overlap which will allow for more air to flow in if you have a fairly free flowing exhaust system.
About the push rods: I don't think you have to change them out. I think it depends on if you can still get the rocker arms to sit in the correct position on the tip of the valve stem.
They might also lower your peak torque RPM while increasing your high RPM horsepower. Both good things.
I think they would greatly benefit your cam as a 112 LCA is not a very performance oriented overlap especially for the size of the valves on small block Chevys. 1.6 rockers will lower it to effectively a 111-110 degree LCA; increasing the overlap. Additionally, the cam does not have very much lift for its duration specs. With 1.6 rockers, your lift will now be .471/.496. These are much better performance lift numbers, though still not great.
If you're short on cash, you could just upgrade the intake valves to 1.6s. The exhaust side does not benefit as much from increased lift.
Forgot to mention that. I am running a pair of 882 heads, mid 70's I think, I bought off ebay for 400$ about 3 years back. They came with 2.02/1.60 valves and had machine work done etc.
The cam I have fits my needs quite well as I do drive it on 3 hour trips to A&M. Its basically a torque cam and has done very well for me and the cheap cost of it. The pushrods I have have some sort of ball at the end of them. The guy who helped me build the motor built engines for nascar and said they were reinforced tip pushrods, but they look like roller pushrods. I don't want to break 500 lift on this motor. I just wanted to get the benefit of a larger lift cam without the has of a cam swap. Is there any benefit to roller tip or is it worthless on a flat tappet setup? These are the ones I'm looking at:
2.02 valves are still, from a scientific standpoint, "small" for the size of the engine and number of cylinders.
The "ball" at the end is just a style of tip for a push rod. They may be heat-treated and they may not be. They are probably universal and can be used for either roller or non-roller lifters. You may still need new ones but I'm guessing not. See if you can properly adjust the rockers on the center of the valve tip first.
The roller tip on the rockers is beneficial to any type of motor. The valvetrain moves twice as much as the crankshaft itself and thus, it is even more important that friction is kept at a minimum. The roller tips decrease the friction at a point of contact in the valvetrain; a good thing. You could also benefit by getting full roller rockers. These have high performance needle bearings that also decrease friction and I believe, valvetrain vibration. IF you do as I suggested and just get the intake side, it shouldn't be very expensive either way.
So by going with 1.6 on the intake side the lift specs would be .471/.465 which looks kinda like a comp thumper cam but I'm sure the duration and LSA are totally different. How would the exhaust side not benefit from the add lift?
Higher lift/faster valve opening does not significantly affect exhaust flow. Greater duration does. Thus why there are dual-pattern cams and generally the exhaust side has 10-20 degrees more duration.
IF you really want to begin to learn about camshafts and valvetrain dynamics, read that article. Page 2 discusses lift while the bottom of page 3 discusses rocker arms.
Essentially, a cam with smaller duration but higher ratio (1.6 or 1.7) rocker arms will make more low speed torque and have more peak horsepower than a cam with higher duration and stock ratio(1.5) rocker arms.
You could either get adjustable length pushrods which I believe are expensive. OR, you could buy a pushrod length checker for something like $12 in order to then order the right length of pushrods.
I just checked the length of an extra pushrod I have for the engine and it measures 7.800 pretty much. Is this stock rod length for 350's? Will these work or no? Little extra info on the heads, I have screw in studs and guide plates installed.
Well I just spent a while on summit looking at comp cams rocker/pushrod kits. When I put in the pushrod numbers for the 1.6 and 1.52 kits, the length for the pushrods from both kits were 7.794. So I'm guessing that my pushrods, which are identical to the ones supplied in the kit, should work correct?
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