442 Restoration questions

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69hurstolds

I know nothing!
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Jan 2, 2006
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It's been a long while since I've done any major restoration work. Going on at least 15 years or so. So I have a couple of questions for those who are doing it now, or have recently completed (they're never really done) a major frame off.

I'm starting with a beginning budget of about $10K. Car is my 60K mile 1985 442. I plan on a rock-stock frame off, with most of the work done by me. I haven't decided on cracking open the engine yet, but the transmission could use a little tightening up to my liking. I recall it used to bang 2nd gear and break the tires loose when new. I'd like to have it do that again.

I already have conceded when I bought the car about 33 years ago it was going to be a money pit and I am not putting the money into it thinking I'll be making my investment back. It's more about sentimental reasons.

The good-

NO RUST T-top car. Spent most of its life out of the weather and the T-tops never leaked so I'm hopeful there won't be anything waiting for me underneath the T-top inside trim. No visible bubbles on the windshield frame and around the T-top plates and such.

NEVER BEEN MESSED WITH. Never been wrecked. I'm the original owner, and it's never had anything done to it as far as hacking the car and whatnot. It's mostly original.

I have nearly every single GM part you could think of for this car either New or NOS that's not a hard part like the short block, transmission and rear end assembly. Oh, and quarterpanel parts and stuff since mine shouldn't need replacing. Thanks to the handy dandy parts book, I've been slowly accumulating GM parts since 1985....Including NOS bolts and stuff. Exhaust system- Everything from exhaust manifolds back to the slant cuts on the tailpipe. Entire front suspension- Everything. Rear suspension- Everything, including sway bar shims. I have stripe kits, all the anodized aluminum trim and new rear quarter windows, new seat and door panel fabric yardage, a grunch of interior stuff, underdash insulation, crap, I could go on.....it's probably easier to spell out what I don't have. From a parts attainability standpoint, I'm pretty much set for parts. I keep running into little things here and there I don't have. So for a lot of it, it's a unbolt, and bolt on new parts. I did make a mistake a long while back. I didn't think ahead and got some GM headliner material....oof. Why. It turned out it crunchified itself over the years just sitting there and the foam just fell apart. So don't ever do that. Got new wheels, Eagle GT repro tires (and NOS ones, but...), etc. rotors, drums, complete brake system, steering system....

The bad-

Paint is factory lacquer. I considered trying to find someone that could or would do lacquer, but then, after thinking about it- while correct, it would end up cracking and hazing like the factory crap did. Not saying the paint is absolutely horrible, but it needs repaint to do it justice so base/clear is the obvious way to go. It's easy though. Black and silver. It's been so long since I had a car painted, I'm not sure how much an excellent paint job will run. Shouldn't have to do much in the way of bodywork (I hope). Maybe hit high spots and fill in any low spots and get the old paint off of it.

Plans are to pull the body off, take the frame down to nothing, then take it someplace to bead blast the frame and either blast or somehow strip the body down and start with a fresh slate and start with that. I'll get the seats restitched perhaps, at least the front buckets. Maybe new foam in there. Then there's the repaint...that's where the major money will be most likely.

I might be crazy, who knows.

Do I need to save more money? I get that this sort of question results in a huge "It depends" but I'm finally getting around to doing something I've been needing to do for years, but for now, just trying to figure out how far my 10K will go... Oh, just to mention. Car was bought in the south, and has stayed in the south. No salt. Hardly any rain for that matter.

Just talking out loud for now and trying to get some feedback and maybe get some discussion going on it since I'm not exactly ready to start the action on it.

And of course, when it starts.....it'll be photo documented for everyone's enjoyment.

Thoughts?

I included a couple of pics of what I'm starting with. The pics were taken in 2005 when I was building my new shop. But it's pretty much the same as I haven't driven it since.
DSC00065.JPG
DSC00069.JPG
DSC00075.JPG
 
If the paint is just yellowed alittle why not just light cut an buff it back? Is it metallic? Then that may be out of the question, maybe have to use a high shine polish.

Paint jobs cost go by type of paint job you want from normal to show car finish. To take car off frame, get frame done, then do transmission an engine, put body back on frame an paint you might be able to do it but it's going to depend on what can you do to get cost down.
 
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Nah, it ain't yellowed. It's lacquer checking. Can't cut that. It's not horrible, but it sucks because I know it's there. The wife says why take it down to the frame? Just get it repainted. But.....all the rubber bits under the car are 33 years old....I know it doesn't always mean it's shot or bad, because miraculously the 87 442 with 23K miles on it still drives smooth and pretty much like new. But it was one of those things I would kinda like to prove to myself that I could get 'er done. And a fresh coat of base/clear will probably last 100 times longer than crappy lacquer.

I guess it's ok to go over 10K if need be, but I figure that's a roundabout starting point, since I don't have to do hardly anything on body work, just strip, prime and go for the most part. It is kinda sad that the base cost of the car was somewhere around 10.5 IIRC. 🙂
 
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Car looks way too nice to blow apart.

Be VERY selective about having it painted, and try to avoid collision shops, we usually don't have time to dedicate to restoration work....and that usually leads to disappointment all around.

Best of luck to you!
 
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Thanks for the suggestions everyone. But that's always the rub. You want to find some place that dedicates itself to doing the restoration stuff but the good ones are far and few between. I mean, I don't want them to be the parts replacement specialists like most collision shops are nowadays. I can't believe how the craft has seemed to vanish and it's all about the volume and not the quality.
 
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In your list

"The Bad"

From what I gather the car needs a paint job.

Why do a frame off if it is not needed?????

Your 10k will just about cover the paint job alone if you are going back to the original two tone decals and all factory look.
 
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I mean, I don't want them to be the parts replacement specialists like most collision shops are nowadays. I can't believe how the craft has seemed to vanish and it's all about the volume and not the quality.


That's not entirely true, but it is common. Good collision shops still exist, but the hard facts are that most people in need of a collision shop are easily led by the insurers, and do not want to expend any effort on their own behalf, instead content to take the "easy" way out and let the insurer deal with everything.. My first employer in the trade would say "we're in the money-making business, and insurance companies are in the money-saving business"

Yeah, I work in a collision shop, but quality is something I take very seriously...wish I could say the same for everyone in the trade.

Soon, there will be very few independent shops left in any city of any size, the insurers are pushing very hard to steer everything to a multi-shop operations...despite all the freebies insurers demand being an unsustainable business plan.

Also, TURNA is correct, $10K will maybe cover an exterior refresh if it's going to be done with top tier materials and by someone with a mindset to do it right.
 
In your list

"The Bad"

From what I gather the car needs a paint job.

Why do a frame off if it is not needed?????

Your 10k will just about cover the paint job alone if you are going back to the original two tone decals and all factory look.
Did my wife call you? 🙂

I've seen a lot of cars get a frame-off that probably didn't actually need it so why do people do them?

It's an interior and a handful of bolts difference from being able to be lifted off the frame, and I'm guessing maybe 1200-1500 for frame blast and powdercoating (pulled that out of my butt. Have no idea). Maybe another what, 1000 for the soda blasting of the body? I also don't want 1/4 inch thick paint on the car with just a scuff and buff and then put more paint on top of that. So no matter what, the car's current paint is coming off.

If I'm already going to be in for 10 on a paint job, why not go that extra mile? The wife's been on me about hogging up space in the hallway and spare bedroom's closets with parts. So I've been getting rid of some of that extra stuff.

I ordered the car new, with nearly all the bells and whistles at the time. I think fiber optics and block heater were not checked. So it's more of a "can I revive the car of my younger days to when it was fresh and new?" If it lasts another 33 years, I should be set for the rest of my life.

It's obviously not about the money because anyone putting 10K or more into a G-body, regardless of what kind of G-body, doesn't do it for investing purposes. Unless they get the car for free or something. And that's not including the original purchase price plus another $30 million (I exaggerate to clarify) already invested in GM parts over the years. I'm not afraid to do the car right, I'm simply trying to get an idea of general cash outlay, what others have done, ideas, etc. - try to not redo other people's mishaps. Stuff like that.
 
That's not entirely true, but it is common. Good collision shops still exist, but the hard facts are that most people in need of a collision shop are easily led by the insurers, and do not want to expend any effort on their own behalf, instead content to take the "easy" way out and let the insurer deal with everything.. My first employer in the trade would say "we're in the money-making business, and insurance companies are in the money-saving business"

Yeah, I work in a collision shop, but quality is something I take very seriously...wish I could say the same for everyone in the trade.

Soon, there will be very few independent shops left in any city of any size, the insurers are pushing very hard to steer everything to a multi-shop operations...despite all the freebies insurers demand being an unsustainable business plan.

Also, TURNA is correct, $10K will maybe cover an exterior refresh if it's going to be done with top tier materials and by someone with a mindset to do it right.
Wasn't trying to insult your trade and I did say most, not all. But many of the shops, as you say, have been pressured by insurance companies to do what they want them to do which is to minimize costs, which usually means quality suffers. Unfortunately, people like yourself that take a bit of pride in their job are getting harder to find. And those shops do hire some knuckle heads as well.

When I took my 84 to get a paint job quote, one shop didn't even want to do it if it wasn't an insurance job. At that point I think he was BSing me because he waited until we were done looking over the car. "We don't do any rust repair" when I pointed out there was a few surface rust spots needing some attention. I was like WTF? You're a body shop! The car wasn't that bad, really. But dayum.
 
Oh, my trade deserves some insults for sure. Just wanted to offer a little insight into the challenges we face. No offense taken 🙂
 
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