Rocker arm studs

[-83MONTESS-]

I just bought a set of 1.72:1 ratio stainless roller rockers from Skip White and im having trouble finding out what rocker arm studs I need. I emailed Skip and he said they always use a stud with 2" of effective length. This wouldnt be an issue but im using my stock pushrod guideplates that came with my heads. Does this mean I need a stud with a guideplate locator shank or do I need a different effective length? I contacted ARP with this question but with it being the weekend I havent gotten a response. Anyone have any info or can recommend a set of studs? They are going on a 496 with 049 cast heads. Thanks

 

[gbondo57]

Just some thoughts on it. I'm not a big block junkie, but head building geometry is the same. I believe if the valves are stock height, push rod and stud length should stay the same. You didn't state the stud size. Assuming 7/16ths. If you install taller valves to get lift clearance for the guides and installed spring height, the same goes for push rods and studs. This keeps the rocker geometry correct. For instance, sbc 2.02 +.100. The stem is +.100 from stock. Learned to ink up the valve tip, and roll it over to see that the rocker contact pattern is in the middle of the valve tip. Good luck. :|

 

[-83MONTESS-]

I have stock length valves but I have heard of people running into issues with stud length after installing roller rockers because of the size of the body and the poly locks. The main thing im uncertain about is just the guideplates. Im using the stock guideplates because they are more durable than most aftermarkets and I already have them so why not.

 

[gbondo57]

I've been a machinist (not automotive) all my life. The engineering standard, by observation is that full thread contact needs to be at least the bolt/stud dia. If at closed valve you have 7/16ths or more of stud it should be good. Provided the rocker clears everything. Seen a few roller rockers with marks on them on the under side. The guide plates, not sure what your pushrod slots (in the head) look like. At assembly make sure the head doesn't bind the rod, from lifter to plate. On my smallblocks, I generally assemble them on the engine, one cyl at a time, with pushrod in place, cinching down the studs. My engine machinist aligns plates one valve at a time, spliting the plates, (on sb) insuring valve tip contact.