Tubular A arm options

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alphamale

Apprentice
Jan 29, 2009
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Georgia
I am in the market for tubular A-arms, however, I have seen some on Ebay for as low as 165$ for a pair of uppers and as high as 400$ from name brands like Spohn. my question is has anyone had luck with the lower end models or should I shell out twice as much for a better product? I am not planning on running a grand prix mind you, just looking to upgrade to a tighter feel and also keep my 14x7 SSIIs from rubbing at full turn. Any advice or just experiences would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.
 
I personally haven't had any experience with them, but from what I understand, UMI is pretty damn good.
 
joesregalproject said:
I personally haven't had any experience with them, but from what I understand, UMI is pretty damn good.

Thank you sir, I appreciate that 🙂

We offer a very nice line of a-arms and I welcome you to take a look.

One thing to consider when looking at a-arms is the changes they make to your vehicle. For example if the a-arms are factory geometry (basically duplicates of factory a-arms with no changes) you aren't really going to gain any benefit other than new shiny a-arms with new bushings and ball joints.

Our a-arms have geometry changes built into them. Our upper a-arms allow more caster to be included in the car along with the option of taller ball joints which simulate a taller spindle. A taller ball joint increases the vehicles camber curve, keeping the tire flatter on the payment while the caster increases the steering feel. The lower a-arms resemble factory a-arms with the exception of improved ball joint angle and less weight.

Below is a link to our a-arm options. We have quite a few so I hope there isn't any confusion, if there is please feel free to ask and we will be glad to help. Again to better understand taller ball joints simulate taller spindles, caster is changed by moving the ball joint pads tilting the spindle resulting in tighter steering feel and more stability. Delrin bushings allow the front suspension to travel up and down with little friction.

On a side note for caster- The factory g-body runs around 3-3.5 degrees of positive caster, most new cars are running 7 degrees. Our a-arms will allow around 6 degrees. Basically we are allowing some new alignment specs on older vehicles.

Please take a look here- http://www.umiperformance.com/catalog/i ... cPath=8_59

I hope this helps!
Ryan
 
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