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I've done several vehicles just welding in plates on the bottom from the scrap pile. My Tahoe, for example doesn't have much aftermarket support, so that's about the only option to get rid of some of the flex.

I haven't heard that saying, so I guess I've been successfully doing it wrong for 30 years. Heard way too many stories of engine fires from filters up by the carb.

I like to put the filter between the frame hardline and the fuel pump. Keeps any risk of leaks down low off the engine. I had a friend that had the glass one leak up on top of the engine, so ever since then, I've always thought about the what if's.....

I've not installed the kit, but have put new body bushings in, and had to weld in large washers to repair the mounting holes in the frame I suspect you will run into similar issues there. Marking the holes is critical for putting the body back on. I did fabricate a tube to go between the rear...

I've not seen any down sides to the tall ball joints. They are mainly for better handling, but shouldn't hurt on the strip. I wouldn't run without a sway bar on the street. I've heard people even talking about how squirelly they can get just trying to keep them straight. I'm running...

I'm using the Hellwig sway bar. The only change I made was to use rod ends to attach to the frame rather than the rubber bushings.

Could be, but the air moving thru the tubes isn't staying there long enough to soak up any heat. I've had a few instances where I've opened it up in town and almost sucked in a couple of small dogs in the screen.

And here I flat blacked mine years ago. Who would have thought it'd be worth that much....

Welded 3" exhaust pipes to the back of the headlight buckets, then to a dual snorkel air cleaner. Never did any back to back runs, but I'm sure it's at least 0.0001 faster in the quarter. I can tell it when the weather is below 50, the engine runs a little colder..

I did mine several years ago also, was able to get it thru in one piece. I think I did have to take a control arm loose or something to get it in.

Got the tires in and mounted this week, finally had a decent day to get the car out. Really liking the way it looks. The Year One center caps aren't the best, they have plastic fingers that hold them in two went in difficult, and one actually broke one of the fingers. The other two kind of...

Wow, I've had these rims a year, never could find anyone that would paint them. Had a guy that wrapped the spokes. Just ordered tires. Excited to get them on this spring and see if I need to trim the front springs a little.

Yeah, looks like a good deal, if you needed them

That's kind of what I was thinking, but I'm out of the loop on some of this stuff.

Are they really getting $140? If so, I need to check in my attic lol....

On my wife's GP with a 305 and 200R4, I went with a 3.42. Definitely helped with the light to light feel of it, and doesn't get too bad on the 70 mph interstates, somewhere around 2400 rpm, where my Cutlass at 70 and a 3.73 is pushing 3000 rpm.

yes, I lined up the switch with the hole for the upper tail light. I've not cut a hole in the tail light for the handle, but it's ready if I'm ever ready.

Here's how I mounted it. As other's stated, you will need a 4 post disconnect switch to cut the alternator power along with the battery power. The solenoid wire is already fused, I did put a fuse on the alternator wire. This way there's a minimal risk of any issues.

I ran #10 for the solenoid, and #8 for the alternator. This ran from a positive terminal block that I added under the engine compartment for the cab power, fan and headlight relays.

Just my $.02, I remote mounted a F0rd starter solenoid to the trunk, so that the large wire was only hot when cranking. Had to extend the starter solenoid wire and added a fused charging wire from the alternator to the solenoid. Mines a street car, so I thought that this was safer. wires run...