The time has come. I finally took the original code AR alternator out of the 60K mile 85 442. It's going to get a makeover with mostly Delco parts. The casing halves will be refinished and reused. Because-originality to the car.
I will be reusing the internal fastener screws/nuts, front bearing reatiner, and replating and reusing the casing through-bolts, but pretty much everything else will be new GM/Delco parts. I even have new Aptiv (formerly Delphi) correct regulator plastic connector in the semi-transparent cream color.
The new triple diode, resistor, rectifier, rotor, and stator have already been meter checked for resistance, grounds, and opens. So it appears everything is ready to go as far as the new parts. Now I just have to disassemble the thing and I'm farming out the replating and refinishing of the bolts and casing halves.
Not much to these things, but most people never bother to take them apart and rebuild them. So if you're ever in the mood to keep your original alternator, maybe this little writeup may help you. Or you could simply cheap out and buy the reman unit.
So, what do you do first? Well, the first thing to do is remove the alternator from the car.
This is what I'm working with. Yuk.
Hopefully it won't look this bad when done.
Next up, a list of parts I either have in my stash, or need to go scrounge up.
Red dot next to them means that they are on hand. A couple of them I had to get the supersession number or a previous part number.
Some of the parts:
Not sure if the 4G means year and month of manufacture or not (1984 July?). The 466 is the last 3 of the part number.
These special washers below go between the nut and pulley. They're wavy and no splits. They simply compress and provide the tension.
Note the early 80s p/n terminal kit (positive post on back of alternator) has a GREEN insulator. Which is great because the original has a green insulator too. The supersession terminal kit has a black insulator.
The resistor is 40 ohms as noted by the "40" on the RH end. It actually came out to 40.1 ohm.
Got an NTN front bearing for the rotor for way less than a Delco NTN bearing. Made in USA even.
Now it's just a matter of yanking that thing apart, field stripping it, and sending off the carcass shells and fasteners for a refresh.
More to come...
I will be reusing the internal fastener screws/nuts, front bearing reatiner, and replating and reusing the casing through-bolts, but pretty much everything else will be new GM/Delco parts. I even have new Aptiv (formerly Delphi) correct regulator plastic connector in the semi-transparent cream color.
The new triple diode, resistor, rectifier, rotor, and stator have already been meter checked for resistance, grounds, and opens. So it appears everything is ready to go as far as the new parts. Now I just have to disassemble the thing and I'm farming out the replating and refinishing of the bolts and casing halves.
Not much to these things, but most people never bother to take them apart and rebuild them. So if you're ever in the mood to keep your original alternator, maybe this little writeup may help you. Or you could simply cheap out and buy the reman unit.
So, what do you do first? Well, the first thing to do is remove the alternator from the car.
This is what I'm working with. Yuk.
Hopefully it won't look this bad when done.
Next up, a list of parts I either have in my stash, or need to go scrounge up.
Red dot next to them means that they are on hand. A couple of them I had to get the supersession number or a previous part number.
Some of the parts:
Not sure if the 4G means year and month of manufacture or not (1984 July?). The 466 is the last 3 of the part number.
These special washers below go between the nut and pulley. They're wavy and no splits. They simply compress and provide the tension.
Note the early 80s p/n terminal kit (positive post on back of alternator) has a GREEN insulator. Which is great because the original has a green insulator too. The supersession terminal kit has a black insulator.
The resistor is 40 ohms as noted by the "40" on the RH end. It actually came out to 40.1 ohm.
Got an NTN front bearing for the rotor for way less than a Delco NTN bearing. Made in USA even.
Now it's just a matter of yanking that thing apart, field stripping it, and sending off the carcass shells and fasteners for a refresh.
More to come...
