CHEVY 383 stroker build

[bruisedbanana79]

I do NOT need to be emissions compliant. Th350 trans with a… 2800 stall… I think. Rear end is a 7.5 inch locker with 3.23 gears. The 350 had a Holley 650cfm with a HEI distributor. I plan on getting a bigger carb or even efi for new motor. I’d like to stay around the $6k-$7k mark, but I’ll spend the extra money if it means saving myself a headache in the future.

You really can not beat this deal right here already includes FI but would still need fuel pump and fuel lines.

I looked through your older posts and saw that your block is already bored over so even if you had a machine shop do some work for you I would guess you'd be .060 over so no room to rebuild in the future.

If you want to go forged bottom end they have a short block for $5000 plus youll need heads and everything else to complete it. (Heads, pushrods, rocker arms, valve covers, gaskets, ETC)

Not sure what block you have currently, but if its a 2 piece RMS without provisions for a roller cam you might want to take that into consideration as well.

Last bit of advice would be to go into a few good machine shops around you to find out what they would charge for machining and prepping your block along with balancing the rotating assy. Then compare that to the cost of a crate motor

 

[64nailhead]

I do NOT need to be emissions compliant. Th350 trans with a… 2800 stall… I think. Rear end is a 7.5 inch locker with 3.23 gears. The 350 had a Holley 650cfm with a HEI distributor. I plan on getting a bigger carb or even efi for new motor. I’d like to stay around the $6k-$7k mark, but I’ll spend the extra money if it means saving myself a headache in the future.

Skip White rotating assembly kit. Roller cam and lifter setup in the low 230’s on intake duration and high 230’s on exhaust, 1.75 long tubes. Pick a head based on budget, Profiler 210’s is a good choice and AFR is better. Compression 10.5-11.5:1.


That ought to force a different rear end if you put a sticky tire on it.

 

[MonteCarloAustin]

View attachment 221806

You really can not beat this deal right here already includes FI but would still need fuel pump and fuel lines.

I looked through your older posts and saw that your block is already bored over so even if you had a machine shop do some work for you I would guess you'd be .060 over so no room to rebuild in the future.

If you want to go forged bottom end they have a short block for $5000 plus youll need heads and everything else to complete it. (Heads, pushrods, rocker arms, valve covers, gaskets, ETC)

Not sure what block you have currently, but if its a 2 piece RMS without provisions for a roller cam you might want to take that into consideration as well.

Last bit of advice would be to go into a few good machine shops around you to find out what they would charge for machining and prepping your block along with balancing the rotating assy. Then compare that to the cost of a crate motor

Man that is a good deal. And very good advice. I’ll make sure to check around to see what machine cost would be. The block is a different one out of an 86? Silverado: 1 piece rms. It was supposedly very low miles before the transmission blew and parked. But still, it has been sitting for 25 years so it will take some machine work for clearancing and to make sure everything is good. Thanks for the advice, I’ll definitely look into it!

 

[MonteCarloAustin]

Skip White rotating assembly kit. Roller cam and lifter setup in the low 230’s on intake duration and high 230’s on exhaust, 1.75 long tubes. Pick a head based on budget, Profiler 210’s is a good choice and AFR is better. Compression 10.5-11.5:1.


That ought to force a different rear end if you put a sticky tire on it.

Yeah my rear end is absolutely the weak point… I wish I knew that when I was 18 and shoving gears and a carrier in there😁.

I am definitely leaning towards a forged rotating assembly kit… especially since it’s a matched and balanced set.

Is this a setup you have experience with?
Do you have a solid roller or hydraulic roller? What kind of lobe separation should I be looking at?
Will angle plug heads run me into clearance issues with headers?
(Apologies for the endless list of questions, But I’m loving all the info from you guys)

 

[bracketchev1221]

Hard to beat buying a crate.

I agree, price it out. I wanted to build a small block and I couldn’t come near a crate motor cost even with the parts I had and the machine shop I use.

 

[bruisedbanana79]

Yeah my rear end is absolutely the weak point… I wish I knew that when I was 18 and shoving gears and a carrier in there😁.

I am definitely leaning towards a forged rotating assembly kit… especially since it’s a matched and balanced set.

Is this a setup you have experience with?
Do you have a solid roller or hydraulic roller? What kind of lobe separation should I be looking at?
Will angle plug heads run me into clearance issues with headers?
(Apologies for the endless list of questions, But I’m loving all the info from you guys)

Quick math here:
Skip white rotating : $1549
Upgrade to forged crank: $549
Machine cost : $1200
Heads (AFR) : $2100
Cam kit: $1100
Rockers: $400
Gaskets: $200
Total: $7098 with no warranty if you put it together and without proven horsepower numbers. Also does not factor in your time for research and assembly, that you have to value for yourself

I love spending other people's money but with the options these days for proven crate motors it is almost a no brainer which way to go. Now if you were trying to build a high powered car or something with forced induction I would steer you a different direction. Spend that extra time you gain with a crate motor by cleaning and painting your engine bay while you have the old motor out!

 

[gbodytoys]

I bought Blueprint Engines 383. It's All complete, 453HP at the crank, 473TQ, streetable, and a warranty. Very happy so far.

Same here, although they have gone up about $1200 since I bought mine.

That aside, here are some 383 guides:

383 Stroker Small Block Chevy - Car Craft Magazine

A 383 Stroker Small Block Chevy is analyzed, assembled and dynoed. Follow along and get every fact and trick you wanted to know about a 383 build. - Car Craft Magazine

www.hotrod.com

Pro Tips on Properly Building a Stroked Small-Block

Build your first stroker small-block the right way by following these important guidelines and tips.

www.hotrod.com

383ci Budget Chevy Stroker Makes 610 lb-ft on the Dyno!

We head to Westech to check out a budget-friendly 383 small-block Chevy with a shot of nitrous.

www.hotrod.com

Big Torque 383 Build - Car Craft Magazine

Learn how to build up a 383 small block Chevy with an affordable cost in Car Craft Magazine.

www.hotrod.com

 

[64nailhead]

Yeah my rear end is absolutely the weak point…

As long as you know and aren’t kissed when it goes south.

Is this a setup you have experience with?
Do you have a solid roller or hydraulic roller? What kind of lobe separation should I be looking at?
Will angle plug heads run me into clearance issues with headers?
(Apologies for the endless list of questions, But I’m loving all the info from you guys)

I’ve never built a 383, but I’ve built a 417/421 setup, which is similar but more bore and stroke. Hydraulic roller unless you can handle a solid roller (they can be difficult.) NO angle plug heads - period.

I’m not trying to push you in a direction. You need to answer some questions : 1st - what block do you have? Is it a roller block or roller ready block? 2nd - do you have the skills to tune, EFI or carb? You need to be able to tune either and the tuning concepts are the same regardless of carb or EFI. 3rd - do have a trusted machine shop? 4th - do you understand that the heads, cam, headers and compression is where the power is made? The short block only has to be able to live at your desired power level.

I’m not pushing you into anything, but if you have zero experience with putting a motor together, then be clear that you will have some ‘learning experiences’ that cost you money.

Please answer the questions.

 

[Ernest]

Of course going EFI adds considerable amount to any build, but my question is... what is the max cam(duration) that can be used with EFI, of course using a carb setup is a no brainer and easier with 230+ duration, IF, you know how to set it up correctly.

I plan on going 383(blueprint/long block) much later on myself and want to go EFI(edelbrock pro flow 4) for this setup, and as for the cam, i figure any hydraulic roller with up to 224 max duration, just looking for plenty of street manners that will be 99% street driven, the 1% will be for horse'n around at the track if i ever get the hanker'n too.

 

[64nailhead]

Of course going EFI adds considerable amount to any build, but my question is... what is the max cam(duration) that can be used with EFI, of course using a carb setup is a no brainer and easier with 230+ duration, IF, you know how to set it up correctly.

I plan on going 383(blueprint/long block) much later on myself and want to go EFI(edelbrock pro flow 4) for this setup, and as for the cam, i figure any hydraulic roller with up to 224 max duration, just looking for plenty of street manners that will be 99% street driven, the 1% will be for horse'n around at the track if i ever get the hanker'n too.

You can go whatever size cam you want as long as you can tune it. This sounds sarcastic, but it's nothing other than the truth.

There is no 'max' limit to cam size. I know nothing about a ProFlow setup/system, but a Holley or Megasquirt can easily handle whatever cam you want to put in, implying if it will work with a carb, then it will work with most EFI systems. A 383 can easily handle, and should have imo, a cam in the 230's if performance is of any consideration. Of course mileage will suffer as performance from a cam is increased.

I ran a 228/230 on a 4.8 (292 ci) that thumped A TON and idled perfectly on a Holley system. A 383 with 9.5-10.5:1 will idle easily on a high 230's cam.

Regarding ICL, NA should be less than 110, boosted 112+ for most builds. But there is a bunch more going on with a cam than duration and ICL. Overlap, which is a function of duration, intake closing point when coupled with ICL will determine the dynamic (not static) compression. What you're trying to do has been done thousands of time - do yourself a favor and don't try to reinvent the wheel - steal/borrow someone else's build plan. But first, decide exactly what you want from the motor before buying parts.

My $.02