Help Me Hook *Video* new link

[Chris Van]

Your car will work like it is.
Just need a posi and some slicks or atleast drag radials.
My car was running low 7's (1/8th mile) with stock upper and lower control arms, stock springs and a set of $15 dollar red ryder gas shocks. The front was stock V6 springs also.
Once you have the posi and slicks you will benefit greatly from a LARGE rear sway bar or anti-roll bar of some kind.

 

[GhettoRacingKid]

ok so since you don't wanna listen to whats wrong and what should be done and changed. and want suspension advice...

Here is what I run. I have a 1.45 60' and wheels off the ground with a sbc on pump gas.

stock susepension
hoosier drag radials.


A car needs to work as a whole. not just one piece. once you learn that youll be on the right track. but then again. I must be crazy.

 

[chevy2480]

ok so since you don't wanna listen to whats wrong and what should be done and changed. and want suspension advice...

Here is what I run. I have a 1.45 60' and wheels off the ground with a sbc on pump gas.

stock susepension
hoosier drag radials.


A car needs to work as a whole. not just one piece. once you learn that youll be on the right track. but then again. I must be crazy.

Couldnt agree more.

 

[All Motor Boys]

I think your missing point of what im saying. Making any changes under the hood isnt going to make car hook up at the track. Khudos to your wheel standing gbody! But passing down some knowledge about suspension would of been more helpful.

 

[GhettoRacingKid]

No i get the point. But the fact your not willing to accept advise is frustrating.

Step one is get some slicks or radials.

Step 2. Nothing. If you really want to make it work at the track there are things you need to do.

You need to shock the tire by smacking the converter. Rear shocks will help. Stock used springs are the best to use.

An anti roll bar will help you launch straight

A posi or spool will help launch the car

A higher gear will get you more in the power band to get you out of the hole.
Same with a higher stall converter matched to the motor

If you wanna talk et....

Then getting a super victor or victor jr will help your motor out more then you think. I grabbed over a .10th by adding a carb spacer

A bigger carb. Depending on how you wanna change it.

If your compression calculations are correct you can make some serious power if you wanted to.

All that translates into traction and et

Right now if you hook your 7.5 will hold up because you arent putting alot of power to it.

Id say your at the 400 hp range give or take. I didnt look up the cam.

You can easily get 650+ hp from that compression.

And there is no difference between my motor and your 400 other then bore.

 

[All Motor Boys]

Combustion Chamber Volume (cc): 60CNC-Machined Combustion Chamber: NoIntake Runner Volume (cc): 165ccExhaust Runner Volume (cc): 65ccCNC-Machined Intake Runner: NoCNC-Machined Exhaust Runner: NoIntake Port Location: StandardExhaust Port Location: StandardSpark Plug Style: StraightIntake Valves Included: YesIntake Valve Diameter (in): 2.020 in.Exhaust Valves Included: YesExhaust Valve Diameter (in): 1.600 in.Valve Springs Included: YesMaximum Valve Lift (in): 0.575 in.



Ok cool thanks. I forgot to mention I have a ttop car if that makes a difference. I found some 8.5 rear ends for $1000 or more. I pretty sure I can find a ford 8.8 or a 9 inch cheaper than that. Winter is coming parts should get cheaper.

Is your car tubbed or chaged?

Hear are my cam specs I have 1.6 rockers

Cam Style: Hydraulic flat tappetBasic Operating RPM Range: 2,200-6,400Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift: 233Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift: 241Duration at 050 inch Lift: 233 int./241 exh.Advertised Intake Duration: 276Advertised Exhaust Duration: 284Advertised Duration: 276 int./284 exh.Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.504 in.Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.525 in.Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.504 int./0.525 exh.Lobe Separation (degrees): 110

Heads

 

[GhettoRacingKid]

Whats the specs in the pistons? Honestly you should have a 10:1 or 10.5:1 not 12+. Just curious

Its stock suspension. Stock tubs. Stock frame. No modifications. I am planning on notching the frame one day to get a wider rim in there. While i can get a 10" to fit its really tight.

Right now im running a 275/65 hoosier drag radial on a 15x8 rim. Usually at 18-19 psi or more depending on the track conditions.

I do have a trz anti roll bar and a ford 9". The 9" was only a little bit more then the 8.5 i had to do up. So i opted to sell my 8.5 and get the 9". Doing gear changes is so much easier.
I got it from quick performance and got the adjustable lower control arm brackets.

Those help with getting instant center.

Wolfe race craft upper and lower adjustable control arms with heim joints

My pinion angle is at 3.5 and i have heim joints in the rear. Solid body mounts. A 10 point cage and solid motor mounts.

The rear springs im running are qa1 14" 120 lb only for ride height. I cant find a set of stock used springs and i had others in but rode too high.

The shocks are summit brand 3way adjustables in the rear and comp engeinering up front.

I had v6 springs in the front. Changed to trick springs and saw no difference.

 

[All Motor Boys]

It looks like I maybe off by a point of compression.
I have flat tops with 4 valve reliefs. -5cc dome volume. With 60 cc heads stock deck height with felpro 1010 head gaskets. Every calculator is used a came up with different results

 

[Chris Van]

Well here's mine while we're at it....

 

[woody31]

I am surprised no one has mentioned pinion angle,,mine works at a -3*
I run a D-75 compound Hoosier slick
on a wore out motor it ran low 14s high 13s..no spin no wheel hop,,,used g body elcamino rear springs with 2 inch lowering springs up front,,