Hey what’s up guys… so just today my wagon started being a turd and I’m wondering if any of you have encountered this issue and if so, how did you fix it… so here it goes… I had already noticed the ignition cylinder felt a bit “sticky” like it was a bit hard to turn. Today it didn’t let me turn the damn thing at all till I played with it for like 10 minutes. The car sat for a long time, maybe that is one of the issues… anyone?
Ignition cylinder
- Thread starter Fatboy
- Start date
How worn are your keys? The base of the ignition lock pushes a rod that runs down to a switch on the base of the column. The lock is cheap, and while you've got to pull the steering wheel off to get down the the retaining screw. Search for a column rebuild post from Oldsofb that has lots of pictures to help you get there. Simpler, 'cause yours is a non-tilt.
I actually have a new key and an older key, they both did the same thing today. Thank you for the info, I’ll look that up.
I was going to do a column rebuild but Hutch already did one so, just look his up.
The ignition switch near the base of the column you can manipulate with vice grip on the actuator rod. If it works ok you need to look above. The gear rack is pot metal or aluminum and the teeth can break causing your problem.
Also just the key mechanism itself can. If you have the VAT key be careful of the following but normally just some WD-40 or similar spray lubricant shot in the key lock will work. Just shoot some in where the key slides in and that will lubricate the actual tumblers. So that's the easy stuff...
From there you need to disassemble up top after removing the wheel.
The wheel remover/puller and lock plate compressor is a rental from O'Reilly's..., AutoZone..., ECT.
Do you have tilt steering wheel and is it tight or sloppy?
The ignition switch near the base of the column you can manipulate with vice grip on the actuator rod. If it works ok you need to look above. The gear rack is pot metal or aluminum and the teeth can break causing your problem.
Also just the key mechanism itself can. If you have the VAT key be careful of the following but normally just some WD-40 or similar spray lubricant shot in the key lock will work. Just shoot some in where the key slides in and that will lubricate the actual tumblers. So that's the easy stuff...
From there you need to disassemble up top after removing the wheel.
The wheel remover/puller and lock plate compressor is a rental from O'Reilly's..., AutoZone..., ECT.
Do you have tilt steering wheel and is it tight or sloppy?
Ok try shoot some wd40 in the cylinder see if that helps. Then check the switch.
I did that, it still is acting like a turd... I just may have to get a rebuild kit or open it up to see what is going on.
What year? What style of switch you got? 69 up through SOME 78s, they had the little tab on the end with no screw to hold the ignition switch in. Later models have the screw hold down. Remove the screw and slide out the ignition switch.
Depending on which style you have, you don't have many options. 78 had a 1st design that used the tab at the end to hold the ignition switch in. There's no screw holding it in. The 78 2nd design had the screw. There's been reports from GM literature that some 78 that should have 2nd design has the 1st design installed for some reason. Go figure.
Options:
1) Rebuild what you have. PITA if you don't have new tumblers and junk, so probably not.
2) Buy a new ignition switch WITH KEYS. I like this option. It's the same amount of work to get the old one out as option 1, and to put it back in, but you'll do it in seconds and have your ignition working great in no time.
Brigg & Stratton, now Strattec, 608438, or 607872, or GM p/n 7830380 fits those ones with the screw hold down. Most 78s - up. Latest number is 19356477. Issue with these is that you get the key for that particular key slot for the YEAR THE LOCK WAS MANUFACTURED. So if it was manufactured in say, 1982, you got a J key. If 1983, you got an A key, and so forth. So if you have a particular ignition key you want to use, you got to seek it out.
If you DO have the tab and want to go with that, it's Strattec 607893. Several GM numbers, 20024673 is one of them. 20071252 is the latest.
Here's one with a J key. Ignition on our cars is the only one with the square key (supposed to be anyway, but haven't researched wagons, so they could be different).
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1560591807...d=link&campid=5335822911&toolid=20001&mkevt=1
Depending on which style you have, you don't have many options. 78 had a 1st design that used the tab at the end to hold the ignition switch in. There's no screw holding it in. The 78 2nd design had the screw. There's been reports from GM literature that some 78 that should have 2nd design has the 1st design installed for some reason. Go figure.
Options:
1) Rebuild what you have. PITA if you don't have new tumblers and junk, so probably not.
2) Buy a new ignition switch WITH KEYS. I like this option. It's the same amount of work to get the old one out as option 1, and to put it back in, but you'll do it in seconds and have your ignition working great in no time.
Brigg & Stratton, now Strattec, 608438, or 607872, or GM p/n 7830380 fits those ones with the screw hold down. Most 78s - up. Latest number is 19356477. Issue with these is that you get the key for that particular key slot for the YEAR THE LOCK WAS MANUFACTURED. So if it was manufactured in say, 1982, you got a J key. If 1983, you got an A key, and so forth. So if you have a particular ignition key you want to use, you got to seek it out.
If you DO have the tab and want to go with that, it's Strattec 607893. Several GM numbers, 20024673 is one of them. 20071252 is the latest.
Here's one with a J key. Ignition on our cars is the only one with the square key (supposed to be anyway, but haven't researched wagons, so they could be different).
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1560591807...d=link&campid=5335822911&toolid=20001&mkevt=1
Current type installed could be some of the issue. If I recall correctly, the new style 1979 and after we're slightly longer due to addition of the lock-screw.
If shooting in some WD-40 or similar doesn't help, and if switch at bottom of column is good, then only thing left is pull the steering wheel and go look.
If shooting in some WD-40 or similar doesn't help, and if switch at bottom of column is good, then only thing left is pull the steering wheel and go look.
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