ok so here is the deal, I just started working on this MC. Currently she is a v6 4.3, 2004r trans, 7.5 rear. I have already bought a currie ford 9" rear housing along with currie 31 spline axles, a th400 trans, next I am planning on a 383 stroker, already have an early 70's block 0010 block! I will have the machine shop clearence the block save me the time and energy(lol) I will be using an eagle cast crank, eagle h-beam 6" rods, kb flat top and prob, 64cc double hump heads, along with a 125 shot single stage nitrous. However i do need help with tires slick choice, what do you guys think so far what should i do for the suspension i know alot of ???? sorry guys but any help would greatly be appreciated I am working on an extgremely tight budget and I really don't wanna hear the wifes sh*t (lol)
ok here we go alot of ???????
- Thread starter will6318
- Start date
- Status
i was lookin to use this car mainly for strip with occasional street use saturday night mustang eatin hangin out rice chompin sh*t.
I personally like the BMR Fabrication rear control arms, with the adjustable uppers, and BFG Drag radials. A 275/60-15 on an 8" or 8.5" will usually clear with some minor rolling of the fender lips.
Here is a copy what I posted about a Elco, most applys to your chassis also.
"you can spend more money on a dependable chassis and rear end than you will on a motor...but it's worth every penny"
That is the number one concept that people don't get , power is useless without control.
An Elco has the same suspension as every other gbody but it is longer in the middle.
I would NOT use the anti-hop bars at the power you have. They don't, or should not tilt the rear. They raise the uca mount on the rear for a different instant center. My car uses the stock mounting points.
If you use aftermarket hiemed control arms, which you should, a 68/72 12 bolt will bolt in. Some use them without moving the spring perch, mine are moved.
My Cutlass has a 68 Chevelle rear. It is wider then the gbodys, but using proper offset rims take care of that.
You can go fast with 8" rim, I went 10-0h with 1.44 60 foot.
I did step up to a 10" rim over the winter, it makes the tread more square on the 30x9 slick. They were tuff to stuiff in a stock wheelwell!
You can get away with airbags, went 1.46, but she was doing "the twist".
A good anti-roll/sway bar will get you leaving straight. Do a search using my name and see the cheap one I made. Just stepped up to a HR&stuff bar. First test will be in 2 weeks.
Also, they are the most nose heavy cars out there. Anything you can do to remove weight from the front or move it to the rear , like the battery, will help.
Here is a basic combo I ran to use as a baseline.
FRONT:Stock rebuilt front suspension with poly bushings with special care to make sure everything moved free, stock sbc springs with one coil removed, drag shocks 70/30 d/s 90/10 p/s, no sway bar
REAR:Adjustible uca with sperical joint in rear ears, hiemed adjustible lowers,eibach lowering springs, QA1 single adjustible shock set at 6 (middle setting) and p/s air bag
_________________
"you can spend more money on a dependable chassis and rear end than you will on a motor...but it's worth every penny"
That is the number one concept that people don't get , power is useless without control.
An Elco has the same suspension as every other gbody but it is longer in the middle.
I would NOT use the anti-hop bars at the power you have. They don't, or should not tilt the rear. They raise the uca mount on the rear for a different instant center. My car uses the stock mounting points.
If you use aftermarket hiemed control arms, which you should, a 68/72 12 bolt will bolt in. Some use them without moving the spring perch, mine are moved.
My Cutlass has a 68 Chevelle rear. It is wider then the gbodys, but using proper offset rims take care of that.
You can go fast with 8" rim, I went 10-0h with 1.44 60 foot.
I did step up to a 10" rim over the winter, it makes the tread more square on the 30x9 slick. They were tuff to stuiff in a stock wheelwell!
You can get away with airbags, went 1.46, but she was doing "the twist".
A good anti-roll/sway bar will get you leaving straight. Do a search using my name and see the cheap one I made. Just stepped up to a HR&stuff bar. First test will be in 2 weeks.
Also, they are the most nose heavy cars out there. Anything you can do to remove weight from the front or move it to the rear , like the battery, will help.
Here is a basic combo I ran to use as a baseline.
FRONT:Stock rebuilt front suspension with poly bushings with special care to make sure everything moved free, stock sbc springs with one coil removed, drag shocks 70/30 d/s 90/10 p/s, no sway bar
REAR:Adjustible uca with sperical joint in rear ears, hiemed adjustible lowers,eibach lowering springs, QA1 single adjustible shock set at 6 (middle setting) and p/s air bag
_________________
Hey guys thanx for the info. I have a few other questions, Like i said in the original ? i have already purchased the currie ford 9" rear along with an 11" drum brake set up. i know not the best of brake set ups but budget was deciding factor.lol. The front end is going to be getting tubular upper control arms, 90-10 drag shocks, manual steering pump, already elimanated a/c heat, bumper supports are being changed for the aluminum brackets, going to box in the factory rear control arms, 4:11 gears, 50/50 shocks money is tight lol so what do you think of this?? If it isn't enough maybe i'll take the kids out of private school and send them to public (lol)
bumper supports changed for the aluminium brackets ???
:shock:
What is that ? Never seen or heard before ??? Do it yourself ?
Greets , Carsten
:shock:
What is that ? Never seen or heard before ??? Do it yourself ?
Greets , Carsten
yeah kindda do it yourself. however if you do a search on ebay you can find them from ((iceman) i think thats the name. yeah other wise just remove your bumper shocks and replace with an chunk of aluminum to mount the bumper to.
yeah kindda do it yourself. however if you do a search on ebay you can find them from ((iceman) i think thats the name. yeah other wise just remove your bumper shocks and replace with an chunk of aluminum to mount the bumper to.
I would not waste money on the front arms yet.
Use it to get adjustible rear uca and TRZ sperical joint.
Boxed lowers will be fine, just make sure the bushings move freely.
What type of sway/anti-roll bar are you planning on running?
Use it to get adjustible rear uca and TRZ sperical joint.
Boxed lowers will be fine, just make sure the bushings move freely.
What type of sway/anti-roll bar are you planning on running?
- Status
Similar threads
