Setting in distributor BBC
- Thread starter -83MONTESS-
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Well guys im about to throw a wrench through the ****ing windshield, put a cover on it and pretend it doesn't exist until spring.
I got new plugs today, gapped them at .045", found TDC using a piston stop, lined the distributor up perfect with #1 and now it won't even start. Before it would start and back fire until it died. Now all I get is cranking with a random back fire. I pulled the cap and found this. Not sure what it means but its burnt near the 5 and 6 plug leads.
distributor cap by bwollens1983, on Flickr
I got new plugs today, gapped them at .045", found TDC using a piston stop, lined the distributor up perfect with #1 and now it won't even start. Before it would start and back fire until it died. Now all I get is cranking with a random back fire. I pulled the cap and found this. Not sure what it means but its burnt near the 5 and 6 plug leads.
distributor cap by bwollens1983, on Flickr
It helps even out the temperatures thoughout the block. I added it as an extra precaution because I know the reputation of them getting hot. Especially all iron engines.GuysMonteSS said:
Do you have another distributor that you could try ?? Even a stock HEI that's known to work might help to eliminate the issue you are having.
Is that a MSD distributor you have now ?? If so,I have had issues with them,coils,modules and rotors have gone bad.
I feel your frustration,I've been in your shoes before LOL.
Best thing to do is to step back and take a break,Windshields can be expensive to replace :wink:
Guy
Is that a MSD distributor you have now ?? If so,I have had issues with them,coils,modules and rotors have gone bad.
I feel your frustration,I've been in your shoes before LOL.
Best thing to do is to step back and take a break,Windshields can be expensive to replace :wink:
Guy
It is a rear cooling set up since the water at rear of the intake deadheads this set up returns it to under the thermostat housing I have this on my big block and also on my future sbc build. I have the 8 AN lines going under my runners on my big block and below is my sbc set up with the lines up top.[/quote]
Thanks for the info.Is there an advantage to doing this ??
Guy[/quote]
It helps even out the temperatures thoughout the block. I added it as an extra precaution because I know the reputation of them getting hot. Especially all iron engines.[/quote]
Thanks for that.
But,you do know that there are many big blocks running the roads without this modification.
My Monte had lots of miles put on the LS-6 454 crate motor with the 188 cast iron heads,and no overheating issues.
Now with aluminum heads,and this summer I went on a 2600 mile highway trip in the hottest time of the summer,and I drove it hard all the way,and no issues whatsoever.
Guy
Thanks for the info.Is there an advantage to doing this ??
Guy[/quote]
It helps even out the temperatures thoughout the block. I added it as an extra precaution because I know the reputation of them getting hot. Especially all iron engines.[/quote]
Thanks for that.
But,you do know that there are many big blocks running the roads without this modification.
My Monte had lots of miles put on the LS-6 454 crate motor with the 188 cast iron heads,and no overheating issues.
Now with aluminum heads,and this summer I went on a 2600 mile highway trip in the hottest time of the summer,and I drove it hard all the way,and no issues whatsoever.
Guy
The rear cooling is for more even water distribution throughout the block but it is not necessarily going to show up on a temp gauge reading, many big blocks don't run the factory bypass hose either and don't have any running hot conditions.
The reason I do this modification is not only for even water distribution but also to relieve the water pressure that will build up at the back of the intake from when I full throttle it to 7500 RPM.
The reason I do this modification is not only for even water distribution but also to relieve the water pressure that will build up at the back of the intake from when I full throttle it to 7500 RPM.
It is a Summit brand stock replacement distributor. The only other distributor I had went with the 400 I just sold. I just don't understand how I had this thing running a week ago but now I can't even get it to fire :xGuysMonteSS said:
Is it possible to return that distributor to Summit and get something else,like this one;
http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/n ... /overview/
Maybe the electronics in the Summit one are faulty,something happened to cause it too burn like it did.
They are probably made overseas,so the quality could be questionable.
The GM one I linked are supposed to be pretty good pieces.
Guy
http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/n ... /overview/
Maybe the electronics in the Summit one are faulty,something happened to cause it too burn like it did.
They are probably made overseas,so the quality could be questionable.
The GM one I linked are supposed to be pretty good pieces.
Guy
Can't help but believe something stupid going on. I noticed you had the rocker covers on - did you pull it to see both valves closed last time you set TDC. Try setting TDC again - just use your finger in the plug hole to insure your coming up on TDC. Set timing @ 10 deg adv and rotate the dis. back & forth w/ the key on as I said earlier to verify spark @ #1 - if there is, electrical should be ok.
So set the balancer at 10 degrees instead of 0 degrees? I have pulled the valve covers numerous times to ensure that im reaching TDC. I even took both covers off and ran the engine over with the starter to make sure all of the valves are opening and closing, the spark plugs were out of course. Is there anyway to or anything to look for in my distributor? I have never worked on a distributor before believe it or notlilbowtie said:
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