Stripping fiberglass and...VINYL!!!

['81 Grand Prix LJ]

I'm about to replace GP's bumpers and header panels and i'd really need to know before doing anything...HOW do i strip paint on my VINYL bumper fillers and on the fiberglass of the header panel down to BARE material before repainting in my colors without destroying the parts????? BIG thanks in advance!!!

 

[Fox80]

You can sand them just as you would any steel panel, however you need to take a little more car as to not round over any corners or alter the shape of the part. 180 grit on a DA would be my choice, I would also have to ask why you feel removing all the paint is needed. If the paint is stuck to the substrate then I would leave it, and just repair any spots as needed. On any bumper fillers you need to look close for cracks in the paint as well, any primer or paints applied to these need to have a flex agent added to them for safe measure.

 

['81 Grand Prix LJ]

Big thanks for the info!!! Well i need to strip my parts to change the colors.... They're blue and i need to switch them to bronze and gold (header panel top).!

 

[Fox80]

Big thanks for the info!!! Well i need to strip my parts to change the colors.... They're blue and i need to switch them to bronze and gold (header panel top).!

Well that still doesn't warrent stripping the parts, guys spend countless hours stripping cars when they change the color out of fear of the different color showing through in a stone chip or whatever, only to apply a grey primer under black paint or whatever. If I were you I would give them a good sanding with 180, then 220, ensuring you have no cracks etc. in them and prime the entire part, and then paint them. The paint on these cars is entirely fine to refinish over, and will hold out to all modern chemicals. The only time I have entirly stripped a car built after 1972 was when is was painted before, I would never trust a previous paint job for adhesion. If when you feather out nicks you only find one layer of paint I say you are good to go. I can't stress enough to use a flex agent designed for the paint as well as the primer, it makes primer sand like sh*t but it will save you down the road from cracks and chips

 

['81 Grand Prix LJ]

Ok i'll do that!!! One more thing... those chromed vinyl strips above and under the black trims on the fillers, how can i remove them without damaging them?? I know they're stuck with 3m tape AND clipped in place with metal tabs!!

 

[Fox80]

Carefully warm them up with a heat gun is about your only chance, you have to watch and make sure the chrome is not cracking as you go. Sometimes you have no choice but to leave them on and sand around them the best you can

 

['81 Grand Prix LJ]

Well that's what i was thinking too.... I guess i'm simply gonna tape them and sand the fillers!!!!! Tell me more about that FLEX AGENT!!.. Then can mix that WHILE mixing the color???

 

[Fox80]

Flex agent is usually product specific, I am most familiar with RM brands, Diamont and Glasurit, they have a flex agent that can be put in the clear as well as the primer, single stage paint in their lines takes its own I believe. It's mixed max 10% to the total mixture, I wouldn't put it in before use, you can buy 8oz cans of it to minimize the cost. Check with your jobber, every brand is different, some lines now offer a flex clear but I think they spray like crap. Transtar has a ready to spray flex primer that is really nice, I have used it a bunch with very good results. To be honest I flex all clear, even for the rest of the car it makes it flow out so much better, Diamont 5300 clear, flexed 10%, with med reducer is IMO the most badass clear for completes

 

[MetroRob]

You will want to use a sealer as well.. Paint tends to bleed through primer

 

['81 Grand Prix LJ]

Fox80, my auto parts store showed me a PLASTIC PRIMER that is said to be CLEAR in Plastikote's catalog, #469... Is it what you are talking about????