Fusible Link Info

[84cutspreme]

not really sure what you mean

From what I have read about fusible links there is a pretty complex calculation that determines the length of link. It figures in wire size, length, circuit amperage, underhood temperatures and some other things. Seems like an impossible task to be sure about length without having an engineer calculate or it would have to be exactly the same as factory had it…mine is not

 

[69hurstolds]

Stock circuits with fusible links are 12 AWG wire. V6 cars use RED fusible links, V8 gas cars use black fusible links. Since the rule of thumb is 4 ga. smaller wire, you need a 16 ga. fusible link wire. Auveco 12628. GM p/n 8903489 or 8915136, ACDelco #616, and Dorman 85621. Bussman BP/FL-16 has one too, probably can find it at one of the big box stores.

I'm not an electrician. But I've heard you shouldn't exceed 9" length on fusible link wire. Don't know how true this is.

 

[84cutspreme]

Stock circuits with fusible links are 12 AWG wire. V6 cars use RED fusible links, V8 gas cars use black fusible links. Since the rule of thumb is 4 ga. smaller wire, you need a 16 ga. fusible link wire. Auveco 12628. GM p/n 8903489 or 8915136, ACDelco #616, and Dorman 85621. Bussman BP/FL-16 has one too, probably can find it at one of the big box stores.

I'm not an electrician. But I've heard you shouldn't exceed 9" length on fusible link wire. Don't know how true this is.

Yup thats about the same thing I have heard. No longer than 9” for links. I actually have the 16awg links, just worried about setting lengths

 

[69hurstolds]

I'd go 5-6" or thereabouts if I had to guesstimate. BTW, the wiring I mentioned above was specifically for the 84 Cutlass. I couldn't tell you about other makes/models/years.

 

[pagrunt]

I keep mine around the original lenth. As I relocate the links from the starter to junction block that'll be on the inner fender I'll have them about the OE lenth.

 

[84cutspreme]

Okay out of curiosity I measured my wires from C100. Surprisingly they are damn near identical to measurements for v8 there. That does not include the c497. I am gonna send it and put 6” fusible links on each wire. I believe the factory had crimp and solder. Is that correct? To solder or not to is last question

 

[mikester]

Okay out of curiosity I measured my wires from C100. Surprisingly they are damn near identical to measurements for v8 there. That does not include the c497. I am gonna send it and put 6” fusible links on each wire. I believe the factory had crimp and solder. Is that correct? To solder or not to is last question

Hard to say if the originals were soldered since the plastic barrel covered it all. I used the butt connectors with the shrink tube ends. Crimped them, heated the ends and then covered them totally with the shrink tubing with the adhesive inside.

 

[69hurstolds]

I was of the understanding that you don't solder in the links, but to do like mikester and butt connect/shrink tube them (or seal them up somehow). Reasoning is that hot solder will creep up the line of the wiring and effectively "shorten" the fusible link. Although, under normal circumstances, you likely wouldn't notice on a car. Maybe an industrial application you couldn't get away with it, but it may work ok on a car circuit. Again, I'm no electrician, so if you have electrical knowledge, feel free to hop in here.

If originality is NOT the goal, then I'd run a bit extra wire to the starter solenoid and run the wire up along the firewall somewhere and place the fusbile link there. They do not have to be at the end of a wire run. You can even hide it with some of that split loom or whatever you like, but it's also away from grease/oil and shouldn't cause anything to catch fire should they fry. And makes it infinitely easier to replace should you have an electrical issue that blows them out.

 

[84cutspreme]

I was of the understanding that you don't solder in the links, but to do like mikester and butt connect/shrink tube them (or seal them up somehow). Reasoning is that hot solder will creep up the line of the wiring and effectively "shorten" the fusible link. Although, under normal circumstances, you likely wouldn't notice on a car. Maybe an industrial application you couldn't get away with it, but it may work ok on a car circuit. Again, I'm no electrician, so if you have electrical knowledge, feel free to hop in here.

If originality is NOT the goal, then I'd run a bit extra wire to the starter solenoid and run the wire up along the firewall somewhere and place the fusbile link there. They do not have to be at the end of a wire run. You can even hide it with some of that split loom or whatever you like, but it's also away from grease/oil and shouldn't cause anything to catch fire should they fry. And makes it infinitely easier to replace should you have an electrical issue that blows them out.

Hmm your points make perfect sense to not solder in…I kind of assumed factory would have. Maybe no solder is safer option

 

[403Olds]

Any of the Dorman or aftermarket fusible links will work. I would splice them using non-insulated butt connectors, then use the marine heatshrink to cover them. I actually put a remote starter solenoid in the trunk, and relocated the fusible links there.