6.0 TT

[Poppajac]

Well the motor and trans have been set in and now it is time to start fabbing all the piping for the radiator and intercooler and running the LS harness.

I have run into a little snag though. The upper steering shaft joint is hitting the header. I do t really want to “adjust” the header, and thoughts on modding the steering shaft or joint?

 

[JD1964]

If he's running a 28-30" tire, then the 3.73 is ideal. With a 26" it will be turning 2800 70mph with the converter locked.

To clarify what I meant is, turbo applications make gobs of torque. So, you don’t necessarily need to sacrifice a relaxed cruising rpm in order to have quick acceleration. I know a guy with a turbo street strip car (500ish hp) that went from 3.73 to 3.27 and his 1/4 ET was practically unchanged.

I’m not saying the original 3.73 was a bad choice for his car. But, he discovered on his own that the extra gear didn’t help him get down the track any faster.

 

[Angryblack]

Swap to a jeep style steering shaft, If you want to keep the stock rag joint as I did then you can fit an aftermarket universal joint to get the room. It still will be very close with those headers. IIRC 1/8-3/16" of space after i installed the aftermarket joint. The jeep shaft is a better option for most.

 

[Rt Jam]

Swap to a jeep style steering shaft, If you want to keep the stock rag joint as I did then you can fit an aftermarket universal joint to get the room. It still will be very close with those headers. IIRC 1/8-3/16" of space after i installed the aftermarket joint. The jeep shaft is a better option for most.

That is a good idea to just swap out the rag coupler to a universal joint for clearance. If you give up the entire assembly for 2 u joints. You no longer have any slip joint. Which is a requirement since the steering box or the steering column do not have provision for slip.

 

[Angryblack]

That is a good idea to just swap out the rag coupler to a universal joint for clearance. If you give up the entire assembly for 2 u joints. You no longer have any slip joint. Which is a requirement since the steering box or the steering column do not have provision for slip.

Not exactly. The jeep steering shaft upgrade has a collapsible shaft. Its an OEM part.

Most fab companies will sell you the components such as the double d shaft and hollow double d tube. I need to keep the rag joint to reduce the road feedback as i have hand and nerve syndrome. What the OP needs is the CPP-U17 steering u joint. thats a 1" DD to a 3/4" DD shaft. The 1" fits to the column with some cleanup with sander. Once the stock flex joint is disassembled and cut off the shaft needs to get 2 dimples for the lock screws. That retains the stock collapsible shaft and rag joint. But for a few bucks more the jeep shaft is available. But the CPP joint will clear the up and forward headers with the LS in any fore and aft location.

 

[Rt Jam]

Not exactly. The jeep steering shaft upgrade has a collapsible shaft. Its an OEM part.

Most fab companies will sell you the components such as the double d shaft and hollow double d tube. I need to keep the rag joint to reduce the road feedback as i have hand and nerve syndrome. What the OP needs is the CPP-U17 steering u joint. thats a 1" DD to a 3/4" DD shaft. The 1" fits to the column with some cleanup with sander. Once the stock flex joint is disassembled and cut off the shaft needs to get 2 dimples for the lock screws. That retains the stock collapsible shaft and rag joint. But for a few bucks more the jeep shaft is available. But the CPP joint will clear the up and forward headers with the LS in any fore and aft location.

A collapsible shaft is made for accidents is not the same as a sliding coupling. The sliding coupling is only there to soak up any movement between the front frame and body as these cars bend, flex and vibrate while driving down the road. A very real concern for full frame cars, especially when the body is on rubber bushings.

I'm not here to crap all over the upgrade of the century but for my car. I'm not giving up the slider since most collapsible shaft assemblies are very hard to move in and out, not surprising since there are not designed to and I will gladly demonstrate a good condition rag joint is just a accurate as a universal joint. Replacing a worn or broken one and claiming the upgrade has solved all the backlash is not a fair comparison.

 

[Angryblack]

A collapsible shaft is made for accidents is not the same as a sliding coupling. The sliding coupling is only there to soak up any movement between the front frame and body as these cars bend, flex and vibrate while driving down the road. A very real concern for full frame cars, especially when the body is on rubber bushings.

I'm not here to crap all over the upgrade of the century but for my car. I'm not giving up the slider since most collapsible shaft assemblies are very hard to move in and out, not surprising since there are not designed to and I will gladly demonstrate a good condition rag joint is just a accurate as a universal joint. Replacing a worn or broken one and claiming the upgrade has solved all the backlash is not a fair comparison.

I agree. I'm not here to give anyone advice on their personal choices brother. I'm not sure what shaft with a sliding coupling is that you mention. I assume that you are referring to the stock jeep coupling as being a sliding shaft. I actually have had one on the steering orbital in my truggy. I cut it shorter in that instance. Not much room to collapse when comparing an item designed for a unibody chassis when compared to an older full frame car with entirely different crash standards.

If one can follow the path that i took then in an hour or so the OP's issue is resolved for clearance of the up and forward headers on a G body. It works for me every time. Retains the stock shaft and cost less than $100 shipped. No matter what anyone person chooses i always wish the best for them.

 

[64nailhead]

The Jeep and Astro van shaft collapse/move while driving and turning unless the column shaft is moving.

The OP wants to lose the rag joint for the sole reason that a rag joint is not designed to get as hot as his will with turbos and exhaust piping under the hood within inches of it. Ask me how I know.

 

[Angryblack]

The Jeep and Astro van shaft collapse/move while driving and turning unless the column shaft is moving.

The OP wants to lose the rag joint for the sole reason that a rag joint is not designed to get as hot as his will with turbos and exhaust piping under the hood within inches of it. Ask me how I know.

• Wednesday at 9:49 AM

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• #11

Well the motor and trans have been set in and now it is time to start fabbing all the piping for the radiator and intercooler and running the LS harness.

I have run into a little snag though. The upper steering shaft joint is hitting the header. I do t really want to “adjust” the header, and thoughts on modding the steering shaft or joint?

I musta missed that. If that is indeed the case then the joint that i listed will not work. That one will be and aftermarket joint that will replace the larger and sloppy factory joint.

 

[johnnunez29]

look like the exhaust manifolds i have. didnt fit with stock ac box. you running ac?