BUILD THREAD “The Juggernaut”

I figured you had something big cooking when I saw you were still online after midnight recently.

And that inner edge of the new top bump piece? It’s shaped that way so that the weatherstrip seal lip sits slightly underneath it.
Niiice.
 
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I figured you had something big cooking when I saw you were still online after midnight recently.


Niiice.

Hahaha, but we’re not all in the same time zone. I’m MST, mountain standard time, so I’m 2 hours behind the most of the rest of you.
Midnight your time = only 10:00 my time.

While most of you are sleeping, I’m usually still working in The Skunkworks. But conversely, you’re up 2 hours before me in the mornings.
🤷🏼‍♂️
 
Back on the fabricated piece, welding up the inside seams for the bump. Getting clean “pretty” welds on sheetmetal is very difficult, so I was pretty pleased with these:

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I wouldn’t normally run this many tacks all in a row at once without quenching, but there is a lot of strength in this area so warping isn’t as much of a concern.

All said and done with the new top bump piece now:

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I know the inside edge looks a little odd in those pictures, but it’ll all make sense in a minute. It’s dependent on this, another new acquisition: A NOS trunk weatherstrip seal.

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This weatherstrip is different in construction from my original, best that 69hurstolds and I can determine is that is an accurate supersession part number redesign. The profiles are quite different from each other, the new one on the left, and my original on the right:

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Here’s the two together, new seal installed (but not yet trimmed to length), and the mostly finished fabricated filler panel:

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The fit to the taillight bezels is absolutely perfect. Perfectly flush with the bezels, the slightest of gaps between, and up tight underneath along the sides:

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When it’s all said and done, I will trim the undersides of the bezels so that they’re also perfectly flush with my fabricated panel.

And that inner edge of the new top bump piece? It’s shaped that way so that the weatherstrip seal lip sits slightly underneath it:

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This is probably the most perfect of all worlds, it’ll keep the panel from rubbing into the paint and ties into the weatherstripping nicely.

Which segueways into the weld vs bolt on question. I’ve definitely decided to go with keeping it as a separate bolt-on piece. The current fit and finish is just so nice that it really doesn’t require welding it on and making it one piece anymore. I know this might disappoint some people, but the extra effort and work required to make that happen just can’t be justified for virtually no visual difference.

I will take your guys’ suggestions though and utilize a gasket between the two panels, I’ve already ordered a large sheet of 1/8” closed cell adhesive backed neoprene foam that I’m going to try and make a one piece gasket out of.

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So now with the bulk of the fabrication work done, I’ve shifted focus to hardware for attaching it, grommets for the wiring pass-throughs, and the harness itself. Amazon deliveries have been arriving nearly every day now, neoprene foam, grommet assortments, deutsch connectors, and others.

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Yesterday I picked up an assortment of the required hardware I’ll be utilizing, here’s what $11 of mixed hardware looks like:

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The rubber sealing washers will be used on the 1/4” stainless steel button head cap screws from inside the trunk, they will be attaching the outer wings, and the two inner lower supports.

The much smaller 6-32 stainless machine screws will be used to attach the upper middle flanges either side of center, and with the two vertical flanges. You might notice the absence of nutserts in the equation, I have decided against using them in this instance. The slight increase in the gap they would create is counter productive to what I’m trying to achieve, plus with only an 1/8” of clearance to the trunk lid in the middle, it would make it a little too close for comfort.

Instead, I’ll be welding all the nuts to the flat washers pictured, and then welding the washers to the insides of the flanges. Doing it this way will help strengthen the attaching points.

Here’s the hardware condensed more to how it’ll go together.

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Currently I’m now working on making the wiring hole penetrations, I’ll end up with 4 very small holes vs the two huge ones that the factory had. Stay tuned for that and more as things progress this weekend.

All for now,

D.
Impressive effort re-working what was already a solid piece visually. Curious though..... Why not utilize flange nuts vs the extra work of welding the nut/washer combos on the attaching hardware?
 
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You’ll be fine soon anyway after Alberta defects and becomes the 51st star on the flag.
🤣

J/K
Fat chance of that ever happening.
 
Impressive effort re-working what was already a solid piece visually. Curious though..... Why not utilize flange nuts vs the extra work of welding the nut/washer combos on the attaching hardware?

Mostly because I wanted to see if I could make fender washers work there. I even picked up some when I got the rest of the hardware, but unfortunately they won’t work unless I cut quite a bit off. They’d have to be more oval than round to fit in behind the flanges. Which isn’t entirely out of the question yet either.

Also, I was going for the largest possible footprint for the nuts to distribute the load as much as possible (hence the fender washers) and while strong, flange nuts typically don’t have that large of a footprint to them. They’re easy enough to get for 1/4” bolts, but much more difficult for the machine screw sizes like the 6-32 I’m using for the upper flanges.
 
From fabrication to custom wiring, all in one night.

While I had already welded up the large oval hole for the factory wiring grommet on the driver’s side, the passenger’s side was a little smaller so I thought I’d keep it as long as possible and utilize it if I could.

Well, after determining actual hole and grommet sizes for the number of wires required in each area, the stock passenger’s side hole was still too big. So I welded it up last night and made a new, much smaller hole.

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Same area, new hole, new smaller grommet. These are just a couple of cut off wiring ends in the required gauge to make sure they all fit through the grommet.

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Doing the wiring pass-throughs like a more modern car, there’ll be 4 in total, one behind each taillight, and one behind each reverse light.

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Started building the new wiring harness last night as well, damn I do love these Deutsch connectors!

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This is going to be so much cleaner and more efficient than what the factory ever did.
 
I like weatherpack connectors better than deutsch for ease of use, because it seems like deutsch connectors can be hard to get apart sometimes. Although, the deutsch connectors take up a lot less real estate for the same number of wires, and seem to seal up better. I deal with them working on ag equipment, so I deal with all kinds of different types of terminals...
 
Nice work Donovan! As usual, very good attention to the details. Are those Deutsch connectors similiar to weatherpack connectors?

Jeff, they’re similar in that they’re modular so to speak, and despite the name, Weatherpak aren’t as weather tight as the Deutsch in my opinion.

I first had exposure to Deutsch connectors 20 years ago when building natural gas compressors for use in the oil patch, and they left a huge impression on me. Their ease of use, compact size, weather resistance and engineering design make them the hands down best. In my opinion of course. I swore that when it came time for the wiring on the car I’d be using Deutsch connectors.

For a minimal investment in a master kit, some closed barrel connectors, and a good quality closed barrel crimper, there’s virtually nothing you can’t do with them. I picked up this large kit and crimper off the jungle website for a very reasonable cost:

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I like weatherpack connectors better than deutsch for ease of use, because it seems like deutsch connectors can be hard to get apart sometimes. Although, the deutsch connectors take up a lot less real estate for the same number of wires, and seem to seal up better. I deal with them working on ag equipment, so I deal with all kinds of different types of terminals...

I respectfully disagree, but to each their own I suppose. I’ve found in my experience that Deutsch connectors are very easy to disassemble, you merely pop out the locks, release the pins and pull the wires out. That was one (of many) reasons I chose them.

I do agree however that Deutsch connectors are far more compact than Weatherpak, and these DT series ones that I’m using are their standard size. They also make a DTM series that are even smaller.
 

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