Back on the fabricated piece, welding up the inside seams for the bump. Getting clean “pretty” welds on sheetmetal is very difficult, so I was pretty pleased with these:
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I wouldn’t normally run this many tacks all in a row at once without quenching, but there is a lot of strength in this area so warping isn’t as much of a concern.
All said and done with the new top bump piece now:
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I know the inside edge looks a little odd in those pictures, but it’ll all make sense in a minute. It’s dependent on this, another new acquisition: A NOS trunk weatherstrip seal.
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This weatherstrip is different in construction from my original, best that
69hurstolds and I can determine is that is an accurate supersession part number redesign. The profiles are quite different from each other, the new one on the left, and my original on the right:
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Here’s the two together, new seal installed (but not yet trimmed to length), and the mostly finished fabricated filler panel:
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The fit to the taillight bezels is absolutely perfect. Perfectly flush with the bezels, the slightest of gaps between, and up tight underneath along the sides:
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When it’s all said and done, I will trim the undersides of the bezels so that they’re also perfectly flush with my fabricated panel.
And that inner edge of the new top bump piece? It’s shaped that way so that the weatherstrip seal lip sits slightly underneath it:
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This is probably the most perfect of all worlds, it’ll keep the panel from rubbing into the paint and ties into the weatherstripping nicely.
Which segueways into the weld vs bolt on question. I’ve definitely decided to go with keeping it as a separate bolt-on piece. The current fit and finish is just so nice that it really doesn’t require welding it on and making it one piece anymore. I know this might disappoint some people, but the extra effort and work required to make that happen just can’t be justified for virtually no visual difference.
I will take your guys’ suggestions though and utilize a gasket between the two panels, I’ve already ordered a large sheet of 1/8” closed cell adhesive backed neoprene foam that I’m going to try and make a one piece gasket out of.
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So now with the bulk of the fabrication work done, I’ve shifted focus to hardware for attaching it, grommets for the wiring pass-throughs, and the harness itself. Amazon deliveries have been arriving nearly every day now, neoprene foam, grommet assortments, deutsch connectors, and others.
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Yesterday I picked up an assortment of the required hardware I’ll be utilizing, here’s what $11 of mixed hardware looks like:
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The rubber sealing washers will be used on the 1/4” stainless steel button head cap screws from inside the trunk, they will be attaching the outer wings, and the two inner lower supports.
The much smaller 6-32 stainless machine screws will be used to attach the upper middle flanges either side of center, and with the two vertical flanges. You might notice the absence of nutserts in the equation, I have decided against using them in this instance. The slight increase in the gap they would create is counter productive to what I’m trying to achieve, plus with only an 1/8” of clearance to the trunk lid in the middle, it would make it a little too close for comfort.
Instead, I’ll be welding all the nuts to the flat washers pictured, and then welding the washers to the insides of the flanges. Doing it this way will help strengthen the attaching points.
Here’s the hardware condensed more to how it’ll go together.
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Currently I’m now working on making the wiring hole penetrations, I’ll end up with 4 very small holes vs the two huge ones that the factory had. Stay tuned for that and more as things progress this weekend.
All for now,
D.