Recent content by bracketchev1221

Its pretty much fact in the machine shop world that the 010 theory is all made up, but I keep that to myself. We used all different blocks when we built the engines. Core shift and cylinder wall thickness were more of a factor than casting number or 2 or 4 bolt. The 4 bolts were not...

I still run them when I can, but not critical. I am trying to use one on the street to help a solid roller act like a hydraulic roller and keep the lifter roller loaded. Prevent wheel skid too. I have run both Eagle and Scat, and both of them have worked well. My personal engines made 910...

180 is good enough to boil the water out of the oil. 160 is a little cool for me. I ran one in my race car because I didn’t need it getting hot.

I used grade 8 1/2” bolts in mine never had an issue them.

Depends on what you want to call fitting. Jack the car up high enough and anything will bolt on. If you want it tucked inside the wheelwell 275/60-15 is about the biggest.

Yeah a 12” tire will never look right on a 14” wheel. I think a 16.5 Mickey Thompson radial would fit a 14” wheel

Oh that makes sense yeah you need a 14-15” wide tread tire on a 14 “ wheel. I ran 16x32 tires on a 15x15 wheel.

I keep this in my phone 168 tooth flywheel, 96 tahoe with 5.7 engine 153 tooth flywheel 96 impala SS with a 5.7

Well thats good. As long as you went through the motor, you would have found a worn chain or cam gear allowing timing to change. Maybe check the end play in the distributor, so the gear can't ride up and down the cam gear gear. I hated having intermittent issues that you never knew WHEN...

What is the rear tire to wheel size? Looks like in the pictures that the rim is too wide for the tread width.

Did you ever find anything wrong in the motor after the late shift?

The 74-75 engine compartment was huge compared to the 78-88 platform.

Make sure they are the right nuts. The weld wheels center compresses when you tighten it and I have gotten nuts that the shank was slightly too long and bottomed out on the hub before tightening the wheel

The weld draglites are perfectly fine for street use. I had them on a few cars and the weld Pro stars.

I think I’d rather limit the front end travel and keep the normal parts. If it’s a back half car you don’t need the front end travel. Limit it till the front wheels change the toe. And as far as front sway bars assuming you’re using little tires up front, the sway bar won’t really affect it...