If you can obtain early style high compression pistons, the Olds will run well on modern gas even at 10:1. Earlier heads are generally better; none of the ones that came on the G-bodies are anything to brag about.
Oldsmobile played with valve seat angles; some heads had 30 degree intake seats, others had 30 degree exhaust seats. Unless the seats or valves are damaged, have the shop replicate the original seats. "A good 3-angle valve job" won't necessarily gain you much on an Olds.
Oldsmobiles came from the factory with long-travel lifters; aftermarket replacement lifters are mostly the Chevrolet short-travel type. Many shops haven't seen an Olds V8 in a long time; a younger machinist may just bolt everything together like the book says. A good shop will have shim packs to adjust the rocker stand height. It's a good idea to check the lifter travel before you put the engine in the car.
Olds V8s have several "extra" oil plugs compared to a Chevy, and it's not all that uncommon for one to get missed. It's a very good idea to use a drill to pre-oil the engine after you check the lifter travel, before you drop it into the car. Just in case.
There were some variations on exhaust manifold bolt patterns. Oldsmobile assumed rigid cast iron manifolds when they designed the engine; it can be hard to get headers to seal. If you're planning on headers, check their fit to the heads *before* you take the heads in to be worked on. Sometimes it's possible to drill and tap a later head for a "missing" exhaust bolt.
The center exhaust divider is cut back in most Olds heads. The fashion swings from "doesn't hurt anything in practice, no matter what theory says" to "absolutely must be welded up flush." It's your decision there...