And the headaches continue. I removed the bell housing and fitted the adjustable pivot. First off the threads on the McLeod housing insert were not very good. They started out easy then got progressively harder to engage. But the insert being hardened steel and the housing aluminum I figured cranking the insert down would cut it's own threads and I was right. But the second issue was the screwdriver slots on the head of the insert were not cut right. I have a BF screwdriver but if you put the driver flat on one side then it doesn't line up with the other side. I don't know how but they managed to cut the slots off center and out of line. The only way I could get the insert threaded all the way in was to screw the pivot in, bush it with some copper tubing, put a big nut on the end, and lock it together. Then I could use a wrench to screw the insert in flush with the bell housing. Then I backed it out, cleaned the threads, hit it with lock-tight, and re-tightened it back in for good. I put it back on the engine and played with the adjustment. There is a 5/16" hex end on the pivot and it is easily adjusted with a battery terminal wrench. Nice. It takes very little movement of the pivot to make a big change at the end of the clutch fork. That is where this part shines.
Then I tested the bell housing on the transmission and found that the very long pivot shaft was so long it hit the main case. This would require cutting the pivot shaft so as much as I hated having to modify an expensive part I see no choice. I did lots of measuring and testing before getting up the nerve to break out the cut-off wheel. I made sure I could screw it so far forward the fork jammed up and so far rearward the clutch would not disengage. In other words- lots of adjust-ability while still fitting in the mere inch of room between the housing and the main case. By cutting the end I had no way to turn the pivot so I ground flats on the end that a 3/8" open end wrench would fit. I test fitted this with the housing on the transmission and it looks good to go.
Another thing is I let too much paint build up on the input shaft/front bearing cover. The throw out bearing must fit over this and it is a tight fit. You can see through the fork window the paint getting smooshed and interfering so I ground it all off. Much better. Finally I re-hung the housing on the engine and adjusted the pivot so I had lots of play at the bearing and the fork was located where I wanted it in the window. It is super great to be able to adjust it exactly how you need it and the part is perfect for that. My only complaint is that a $55 part that is basically a nut, a bolt, and a sleeve should have been machined a lot better. Someone less patient than myself would have exploded in anger. Unfortunatly I am no stranger to sloppy parts. This is where otherwise good hot rodders get frustrated. The constant fit-test-fail-refit-test-fail-try something else requirement of this hobby is what confounds them. Sometimes you gotta back up and re-group.