How do I disable glovebox locks from locking without a key?

It might be infinitely harder WITHOUT a key. From what I remember, I think you have to have it locked, with the key left inside to pull the tumblers down. You may be able to pick them down with a bent paper clip. I've always had the key so I'm not familiar doing it without the key.
I'll try using my door key and see what happens. Thanks again.
 
This may sound foolish, but, what is the proper procedure to remove the pins and and keep the springs from ejecting?
I thought I had it figured out.
 
Once the cylinder is out of the lock, you can take a small screwdriver and push the tumbler out from the bottom. The spring MIGHT eject, so although this sounds stupid, I wrap cellophane tape around the tumbler tops allowing enough "give" to push them out a bit. Keeps them from flying out and the spring going to somewhere you won't see it. It takes a little bit of pressure, but once you do one, you'll quickly get the hang of it. To replace them whenever or if you want to, you just place the spring in the hole, then "snap" in the tumbler that came out of that slot. Hence the name "snap in" tumblers.

Thing is, if you want to ensure they match the key, you'll need to keep them in the proper order as they come out, front to back. Some have a number on them for depth markings. Some may not. Factory ones normally do, but not always. Note too, those sort of locks only used the last 4 key cuts for the tumblers. First two aren't needed.
 
Once the cylinder is out of the lock, you can take a small screwdriver and push the tumbler out from the bottom. The spring MIGHT eject, so although this sounds stupid, I wrap cellophane tape around the tumbler tops allowing enough "give" to push them out a bit. Keeps them from flying out and the spring going to somewhere you won't see it. It takes a little bit of pressure, but once you do one, you'll quickly get the hang of it. To replace them whenever or if you want to, you just place the spring in the hole, then "snap" in the tumbler that came out of that slot. Hence the name "snap in" tumblers.

Thing is, if you want to ensure they match the key, you'll need to keep them in the proper order as they come out, front to back. Some have a number on them for depth markings. Some may not. Factory ones normally do, but not always. Note too, those sort of locks only used the last 4 key cuts for the tumblers. First two aren't needed.
Once again, many thanks. The cellophane tape idea doesn't sound stupid at all. I was wondering what method to use to catch the springs,
I have noticed that some types of tumblers have a square hole in the center and some have a squarish/ stepped cutaway. I'm assuming the type I have is the one with the square hole in the center. I don't have the original key to these locks unfortunately.
 
I did notice two different type of tumblers. Which is the proper type for my locks?
 
For glovebox style locks with the "snap in" style....neither. Those top ones are newer style locks. If you were doing doors or ignition, or trunk (tailgates too, I think) then the bottom listing is what you would want.

What you need is glovebox tumblers. The retainer doesn't have a "bottom" on it. Looks more like a long fork tines.

The tumblers look SIMILAR to the top listing you show, but not quite. The ones you have SHOULD be smooth edges.

#1Tumbler- GM p/n 6259309. All of them look typically like this one.
1720381158587.png

1720380993418.png

#2 Tumbler- GM p/n 6259310
#3 Tumbler- GM p/n 6259311
#4 Tumbler- GM p/n 6259312
#5 Tumbler- GM p/n 6259313

Retainer- GM p/n 6259314
1720381050085.png


Tumbler springs- GM p/n 625315 (strattec #46650)
1720380917500.png


They come 100 pack each from GM and Strattec, so there's THAT. They don't take up a lot of space, but unless you're locksmithing it, it's kinda a big number to have laying around.
 
Just a few, huh? That's an understatement. I could tell that you've done this before. I think I should just send you my locks and have you key them to my doors and tailgate.🤔
 

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