afb carb 350 trans kickdown

Most likely will not find one for the original carter afb/weber carburetor unless you modify one yourself, not advisable unless you know exactly what you are doing for proper kickdown operation,

If you have a look at the edelbrock clones, they have the th350 kick down atachment as part of the throttle lever... to simplify, you might have to switch to an edelbrock unit or a holley, they also have the th350 kickdown attachment on the throttle lever as well, of course you will have to buy the seperate universal transmission kickdown stud.

Ps - Both offer seperate bolt on brackets if you ever choose to use 700R4/2004R transmissions with their TV(Throttle Valve) cable.

Pic 1 - Edelbrock / Pic 2 - Holley / Pic 3 - Universal transmission kickdwn stud(edelbrock/holley)

That is an old school Weber that was manufacturing for Carter, back when they couldn't keep up with the demand. If you have a turbo 350 you can manufacture something yourself it'll have to be basically a design build, trial and error.

If you have the turbo hydramatic 200, 2004 r, or the 700R, that's not a kickdown cable. That has to be set up correctly, or you will blow your transmission, burn it up probably in less than 20 miles. If you're not experience with those transmissions you needed to get it to somebody that is. You can do it as a design build but you have to be careful, that full travel on that TV cable is 100% prior to the butterflies open to 90%.

That particular carb was used across the board, Chrysler Ford and GM. Modifying it for the throttle cable is not that difficult. For the kickdown cable, takes a little bit of shade tree engineering, but it can be done.

Summit and Jegs has the Holly provided geometry corrector, most your local speed shops will have it as well, if you actually have a speed shop local to you. It can be done, just takes a little finesse.

Just a little history, The Carter AFB, just means "Aluminum Four Barrel". Where your slide comes up and is sitting where it is, if you put one of those studs in there, figuring you can get one in. You can go to Ace Hardware and pick up a small spring.

That spring will have enough tension that will pull the cable forward to operate the kickdown function, and any excess the spring will stretch. Then when you close the plates, it'll go back to normal. It won't be the cleanest look but it would work.

The slide looks like cracked all the way across. Use a short 1/4 in bolt, washers each side and nylock nut where the crack is. This will keep it from stretching and deforming, also will create a loop for the spring to hook to.