Is anyone running this BMR frame brace? It's going to be my next suspension upgrade and I just want to make sure it's worth it. All my suspension is UMI stuff, front coilovers, and all new body bushings front to back. This would be my first chassis brace.
I'm sure it helps support the front bumper, especially if the car takes a sideways hit on the front bumper.
It's hard to get a flat frame on body on frame car to be strong. I have a 2500 truck and it's still flexes a bit and it has a 7" tall frame.
If the goal is to strengthen up the front frame horns. Bars need to run from the front suspension area to the firewall area of a roll cage. I"m sure it helps a bit but not really where you need it. I'd say the middle of the car is the area that a stiffer frame could help but every support cost money and weight, for a gain nobody has put a number on.
I have the factory jounce bars and a Grand Prix bar, which is the combination that this piece is based on. Having these braces keeps the front end tight when things are bumpy, it helps with steering response a tad, and in general it's a worthwhile way to stiffen a section of frame that's under amazing amounts of stress. I'm of the camp that believes they help with high speed stability as well: things are less "floaty" @ 100+ mph.
UMI offers one of these units as well, though a couple members have made their own:
There have been a few threads on this very topic and they're extremely informative, with basically everyone agreeing that more bracing is more better.
Is anyone running this BMR frame brace? It's going to be my next suspension upgrade and I just want to make sure it's worth it. All my suspension is UMI stuff, front coilovers, and all new body bushings front to back. This would be my first chassis brace.
I have the UMI version on the Monte. The BMR brace looks better, it boxes in the skid part of the cross member and uses nut-plates out on the frame extensions.
I installed OEM F41 and GP braces on my Regal and it did stiffen up the front end by a good measure. Triangulation is the best way to add rigidity to a structure.
Boxing the middle C channels adds a lot rigidity to the frame but its a very technical and delicate procedure best left to professionals. Frame boxing really requires a chassis jig, welders with fine heat control, and advanced welding skill. Lots of hotrodders over the decades have warped their frames in botched boxing jobs.
Thanks for the input guys. I have noticed that when I'm parked and I'm looking under the hood, if someone is in the car turning the steering wheel from lock to lock, the frame flexes where the power steering pump is mounted. I don't know what that translates to in the road, but it seems like it the stiffness could be improved. I just want a good feeling when I'm going into a corner at higher speed. Not auto crossing, but I would like to feel like I could if I wanted to.
Also want to add that strength and ridgity are two different attributes of an object, they are related but still different like torque and HP. While rollcages do add ridgity they are not practical nor safe for street driving. They are a race track only option.
The BMR piece looks to be beefier than most of the other braces out there. The UMI one is a rigid piece as well. No matter which one you pick - it will be much better than having nothing.
Anything is better than nothing. Don't be shocked if your frame doesn't line up perfectly with the holes in the BMR one. It might require some minor modification to get it to line up. ut I wouldn't let that e a deciding factor. I recently mentioned in another thread - if your body to frame mounts aren't in very good shape, then change them as well 9which is a PITA if you don't completely separate the body from the frame. But it's needed to be done if the you have the original body bushings.
I've bought and installed the BMR A-arms - they are nice pieces and they were extremely helpful when I called them to order.
The BMR piece looks to be beefier than most of the other braces out there. The UMI one is a rigid piece as well. No matter which one you pick - it will be much better than having nothing.
Anything is better than nothing. Don't be shocked if your frame doesn't line up perfectly with the holes in the BMR one. It might require some minor modification to get it to line up. ut I wouldn't let that e a deciding factor. I recently mentioned in another thread - if your body to frame mounts aren't in very good shape, then change them as well 9which is a PITA if you don't completely separate the body from the frame. But it's needed to be done if the you have the original body bushings.
I've bought and installed the BMR A-arms - they are nice pieces and they were extremely helpful when I called them to order.
Mechanic in my neighborhood told me to loosen up all of the body mounts and then Jack the car an inch or so off the frame on the driver side replace those set it down Jack the passenger side an inch off the frame replace those then set it down on the frame and tighten. Did you do more of a body off frame or did you just try to lift the body a bit?
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