BMR Frame Brace

[Rt Jam]

I do not have those luxuries but luckily I have a friend who does. With the engine out, bumpers off, front sheet metal removed. It was a 2 hour job to unbolt and bolt in the new frame with polyurethane bushings and new bolts. If the captured nut spins, this will change your day.

A 1 ton should easily lift the body as long as you support it properly. We lifted mine from the rockers. I have pics of the body lift on page 3.

https://gbodyforum.com/threads/boost-lee.82925/

 

[Rgpmalibu]

I do not have those luxuries but luckily I have a friend who does. With the engine out, bumpers off, front sheet metal removed. It was a 2 hour job to unbolt and bolt in the new frame with polyurethane bushings and new bolts. If the captured nut spins, this will change your day.

A 1 ton should easily lift the body as long as you support it properly. We lifted mine from the rockers. I have pics of the body lift on page 3.

https://gbodyforum.com/threads/boost-lee.82925/

In the picture on page three, I see how you have the front of the body on jack stands and square tubing - is it supported the same way in the back? I can't see in the photo.how the body is held up.

 

[Rt Jam]

Sorry RPG, that was so long ago. I don't really remember. It was just a rusted parts car, most likely just put stands under the floor of the trunk. It was a gutted parts car so not much effort was put into not damaging it or preserving it. She was pretty light at that point.
The square tubing in the front was a last minute thing to support it wide enough to let the frame slide out. I didn't end up using it anyways.

 

[melloelky]

Mechanic in my neighborhood told me to loosen up all of the body mounts and then Jack the car an inch or so off the frame on the driver side replace those set it down Jack the passenger side an inch off the frame replace those then set it down on the frame and tighten. Did you do more of a body off frame or did you just try to lift the body a bit?

yep,he's not wrong,that's what the paper work says that came with my new bushings.it also cuts down on the snowball effect.that's when you start doing something and take the ''while I'm here" mindset and 4+years later you join a forum asking "what this bracket is" because your project got wildly off track.

 

[Clone TIE Pilot]

You should be able to weld repair either the front most or rear most frame mounts with just a jack. But if you have several frame mounts needing weld in washers, especially in the middle, then it's time for a lift.

#2 passenger side is the most common trouble spot which can be fixed with just a jack or two.

 

[64nailhead]

If not removing the body from the frame completely, then I do the core support bushings last one at a time. Before you take the core support bushings out, measure the distance from the core support to the frame and shim the new bushing as needed to retain the same height. And have the front of the car level.

The center body bushing has a locator in it - it's the most difficult one to get out and reinstalled. Other than that one - I've done them one at a time. I mentioned previously the frame is flimsy - it's not difficult to flex the frame to squeeze the new bushing in (other than the center one).

 

[403Olds]

I did mine with a jack and 2X4 under the rocker panel. Used 1.5" washers from Fastenal to repair the frame. Like many, had to drill access holes in the truck to get the cage nuts out.

 

[ElkySS89]

I loosened all the bolts on one side and took the other side out. Then used a floor jack on the pinch weld right behind the door when doing the rear bushings and in front of the door when doing the front. No 2x4s or wooded fixtures. No damage to the body or pinch welds. If it wasn't for the 4 bolts that broke, I would've had it all done in a day.

 

[Rgpmalibu]

I just got the BMR frame brace and I'm going to install it on Friday. The brace has been redesigned so that it sits between the sway bar and the frame, giving it an extra point of attachment than the original design. The four sway bar bolt holes get drilled out, and rivnuts get put in their place. The brace came with the rivnuts, but not the tool, so I picked one up on that jungle website. I think I'm also going to put rivnuts on the center frame horn as well, as the holes don't seem to be threaded anyway, so there's no point in tapping the holes when I can put the rivnuts in instead. I'm pretty excited about the way they redesigned this piece - a little extra work removing the sway bar, but I know it will be worth it. Normally I keep the car in the garage for the winter once the salt trucks come out, but I might just have to go for one last drive once I get the brace installed.

 

[Clone TIE Pilot]

I just got the BMR frame brace and I'm going to install it on Friday. The brace has been redesigned so that it sits between the sway bar and the frame, giving it an extra point of attachment than the original design. The four sway bar bolt holes get drilled out, and rivnuts get put in their place. The brace came with the rivnuts, but not the tool, so I picked one up on that jungle website. I think I'm also going to put rivnuts on the center frame horn as well, as the holes don't seem to be threaded anyway, so there's no point in tapping the holes when I can put the rivnuts in instead. I'm pretty excited about the way they redesigned this piece - a little extra work removing the sway bar, but I know it will be worth it. Normally I keep the car in the garage for the winter once the salt trucks come out, but I might just have to go for one last drive once I get the brace installed.

The stock F41 braces use self tapping bolts in the center rail. So a G body that never had those braces won't have tapped holes. I don't know if aftermarket braces come with self tapping bolts.