Yeah I never had much luck at Maple Grove when the track was that cold. Generally it got bad after the 1/8th so you may be ok.
On the 'mildly' Cheap SS Monte Carlo chasing a 9.0___
- Thread starter 64nailhead
- Start date
It’s 1/8 only, instant green - typical no prep stuff. I watched the vids from last year - the starting line was kinda sticky.
The track condition will dictate how it goes. Could possibly be leaving off the foot brake if the track has nothing on it. Time will tell.
Geez Jim, I thought you had a bigger cam than that already. The one I just stuffed into my new motor looks very similar to that. Take a peek and let me know what you think
Turbo cams are not large as compared to nitrous or NA cams Shawn.
And I’m not as cam naive as I used to be. There is a lot more to a cam than duration at .050” , LSA and ICL numbers. Something to remember with a turbo is the the intake valve doesn’t want to close, especially as the rpm (valve speed) increases. Your setup isn’t pushing on the valve to keep it open.
There is a lot of thought into turbo lobe design. And when the exhaust valve opens there is additional pressure beyond what the piston’s upwards motion create to evacuate the cylinder. And consider what is happening during overlap - NA setups relying a lot on cylinder head flow to ‘blow down’ the cylinder where as a turbo is actually pressuring the chamber during overlap to flush the burnt air out of the cylinder.
And I’m not as cam naive as I used to be. There is a lot more to a cam than duration at .050” , LSA and ICL numbers. Something to remember with a turbo is the the intake valve doesn’t want to close, especially as the rpm (valve speed) increases. Your setup isn’t pushing on the valve to keep it open.
There is a lot of thought into turbo lobe design. And when the exhaust valve opens there is additional pressure beyond what the piston’s upwards motion create to evacuate the cylinder. And consider what is happening during overlap - NA setups relying a lot on cylinder head flow to ‘blow down’ the cylinder where as a turbo is actually pressuring the chamber during overlap to flush the burnt air out of the cylinder.
I agree. I don't pretend to understand camshafts anymore. When I was working at the engine shop I did a lot of N/A motors and you had a general idea of what the engine needed. But we still went to either Ultradyne or Bullet for a final cam recommendation. Cam numbers can look the same on paper, but without ALL the numbers they can be completely different. One take away I got from working in a race shop was that Short blocks are kind of interchangeable. Camshafts and intake manifolds are specific to the engine. What may gain 30 hp on 1 engine may gain nothing on another and HP gains are directly correlated to how bad the engine was to start with.
This ^^^ is a fabulous statement - I LOVE it.
It follows with my mentality - the short block has to be able to take whatever I throw at it. The heads, intake and cam have to work. And whatever you have, don’t let it run out of fuel or tuning ability.
Well, I don't really like all the intake tests and spacer testing, etc making blanket statements on what works and what doesn't. Basically what is proven is the best intake for the engine on the dyno at the time. The race shop I worked at did 70% circle track small blocks and without fail we saw 8-10 hp on a small block with the 1" tapered 4 hole spacers. Back then this was the trick stuff. I put one on my drag race 540, paid $150 for it from Wilson, and only after dynoing the motor found out that a 1" open spacer blended to the intake made 4 hp more than the $150 spacer. My friend had another spacer that made I forget how much more power on his Brodix intake. We tried it on my motor and once again, the 1" open did better. But yeah, if your combo has the wrong parts to start with, the right parts will make a bigger gain. If the stuff you have is close to right, the gains don't look as impressive, but that is how the internet and magazines have sold parts for years.
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