HEI stupid question
- Thread starter L05edSS
- Start date
All distributors, both points and electronic require an outside power source such as a generator or alternator combined with a battery. Magnetos are similar to distributors but they generate their own power which is what lawnmower engines use.
No such thing as stupid question...
9+VDC is minimum for HEI. Never tried it, but still supposed to throw spark at 9+ VDC, of course spark will be much better with a correctly running charging system.
For the C3/CCC Carb systems 1981 and up, 10+VDC is minimum for the ECU/ECM.
Even points need Batt source. VWs used to run with 6+ VDC, USA went to 12+ standard with negative ground some time after WWII.
9+VDC is minimum for HEI. Never tried it, but still supposed to throw spark at 9+ VDC, of course spark will be much better with a correctly running charging system.
For the C3/CCC Carb systems 1981 and up, 10+VDC is minimum for the ECU/ECM.
Even points need Batt source. VWs used to run with 6+ VDC, USA went to 12+ standard with negative ground some time after WWII.
oh i thought points were self sustaning.... lol welp never know unless ask.
i ask cuz i follow someone who loves points over HEI, a few yrs back i had a alt failure, car wouldn't start and i mean dead alt and not enough battery power to kik the starter. flatbed guy put a battery pack to it to get it on ramp truck, and @end of driveeway got it into garage and i think was driven to a shop that was bout 2 miles down the rd in following days.
also just wanna note my disaproval of gbody forum tag of master mechanic cuz i am last thing of such. i been thru a few things and understand a few things now having done 2 montes in last 25 yrs. meaning dealing with ordering parts and delegating work as a crippled. yeah i know a few things but i don't know all like when comes to cams? lol i will sit that out however if i had to know bout em i would do the work to understand. 4 yrs ago i knew nothing bout tire & wheel sizing till i had to learn for my own situation, had to learn factory sizing 1st.
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Points are self-sustaining in that they don't need any electronics. HEI has an electronic ignition module instead of points.
"Sigh, no G-body left here. I stalled around too long trying to figure out what I could possibly want to do with my '83 Malibu (Buick V6) that would satisfy the State of California, and it finally flunked smogcheck one too many times for me."
man that just sux, get out here to RI, 3 seasons of good driving, you can even catch a few days in winter. we tried that CA style emissions and it proved failure. early 2000s we had the dynos & all that, certified garages eventually said NAH! i'm guessin the costs of equip upgrades and what not were hitting their bottom lines too hard. 2007 was last time put my car thru that till 22' and i knew dumbest thing could do was get that inspection and get back in the state system so can be harassed if lapse and was right. almost got registration suspended in 24'. all those other yrs i was free n clear. got a 86 ss with 350, no CCC, not hooked up to the ecm, got a reg Qjet, true duals with 2 way cats and passes, they don't sniff the stinkas anymore...
thanks for reply, kinda what was expecting to hear of you need voltage in the system for HEI to work. its an area i never dug into and now know in case of a failure.
Sometimes it's stupid people asking questions. 🙂
But in this case, no, not a stupid question nor the person asking.
In both instances, the coil primary is what needs the 12V source. Sure, the module uses 12V too, but the module and pickup coil act like the points and interrupt the 12V signal until needed at the spark plug. Generally speaking, on the setup, you either have a "7-pin" or "4-pin" module (there are others). The 4-pin modules are typically used by non-CCC controlled distributors, while the 7-pins are used for CCC controlled advance/bypass. The beauty of HEI is there are no points to burn, no point bounce at higher rpm, and no adjustments needed among others. They also use 12V straight from the battery power so no need for any ballast resistors, and use about 1/2 the amps of an OG oil filled can coil. Hook it up and go. Granted, that little button connection to the rotor can get damaged and cause headaches, but generally speaking, points vs. HEI is like Nintendo Classic vs. PS4. Both work and can be fun, but the later version is better all around in most instances. For extreme hi performance use, you'll probably need some tweaks anyway, as saturation time can start to be a factor on a stock HEI at high rpms.
As far as a "Master Mechanic" tag on your avatar, the program does this based on the number of posts you have. Once you get a certain threshold, you'll get a new tag. Don't fret it.
But in this case, no, not a stupid question nor the person asking.
In both instances, the coil primary is what needs the 12V source. Sure, the module uses 12V too, but the module and pickup coil act like the points and interrupt the 12V signal until needed at the spark plug. Generally speaking, on the setup, you either have a "7-pin" or "4-pin" module (there are others). The 4-pin modules are typically used by non-CCC controlled distributors, while the 7-pins are used for CCC controlled advance/bypass. The beauty of HEI is there are no points to burn, no point bounce at higher rpm, and no adjustments needed among others. They also use 12V straight from the battery power so no need for any ballast resistors, and use about 1/2 the amps of an OG oil filled can coil. Hook it up and go. Granted, that little button connection to the rotor can get damaged and cause headaches, but generally speaking, points vs. HEI is like Nintendo Classic vs. PS4. Both work and can be fun, but the later version is better all around in most instances. For extreme hi performance use, you'll probably need some tweaks anyway, as saturation time can start to be a factor on a stock HEI at high rpms.
As far as a "Master Mechanic" tag on your avatar, the program does this based on the number of posts you have. Once you get a certain threshold, you'll get a new tag. Don't fret it.
Eventually your tag will change to "person who spends too much money trying to keep junk running". You really want to be broke? try race cars. At $12 a gallon for gas it was a wise investment.
Hey, take all the praise you can get while you can get it.
On the points, it's possible maybe that in an emergency you can still get the car to run, even at anything as low as 6 volts to 9 volts. But the points only work on the ground side. Voltage goes in and charges the primary winding. When the points open that primary winding loses current flowing through it.
This collapses the field into the secondary winding and because there are more wires and they are thinner equals more electrons. These electrons equate to thousands of volts which is enough to create a spark.
When you get enough electrons to make something around 10,000 to 20,000 volts that electricity has to go somewhere. Therefore it goes out through the high tension lead and when the rotor is in the right position, that voltage grounds itself to the engine block, but in order to do that it has to jump the gap between the tip of the rotor and the contact point in the distributor cap. Then flow down the spark plug wire, and then jump the gap at the spark plug. That's what creates the spark.
Hope no confusion, but only a magneto is self-contained / self-sufficient.
On the points, it's possible maybe that in an emergency you can still get the car to run, even at anything as low as 6 volts to 9 volts. But the points only work on the ground side. Voltage goes in and charges the primary winding. When the points open that primary winding loses current flowing through it.
This collapses the field into the secondary winding and because there are more wires and they are thinner equals more electrons. These electrons equate to thousands of volts which is enough to create a spark.
When you get enough electrons to make something around 10,000 to 20,000 volts that electricity has to go somewhere. Therefore it goes out through the high tension lead and when the rotor is in the right position, that voltage grounds itself to the engine block, but in order to do that it has to jump the gap between the tip of the rotor and the contact point in the distributor cap. Then flow down the spark plug wire, and then jump the gap at the spark plug. That's what creates the spark.
Hope no confusion, but only a magneto is self-contained / self-sufficient.
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