The aftermarket ECU’s I mess with require a 12v wire that is hot in crank and run. It carries virtually no load, but is needed for the ECU to ‘stay awake’. It’s very easy to put a generic switch in that circuit. You just need to keep the switch out of sight. It’s the reason I use the cruise...
...got to pull the heads to replace the lifters. The timing chain area has a lot going on; not bad, but it's busy. The oil pump sits over the crank, there is a VVT gear on the cam, and a tensioner (can't remember if it is spring or hydraulic) on the chain.
The oil pan is baffled and will be...
...was driven regularly and the truck was maintained well, so that makes a difference, I believe.
Oh, just remembered the 2013 Camaro ZL1 original Delco battery is over 11 years old now and still cranks the car up. Keep it on a tender while parked. ~2,500 miles on it. I need to drive that thing...
...and thought perhaps I'd find a broken valve spring, stuck valve, or a stud that backed out but saw nothing. I then systematically checked the cranking compression of all 8 cylinders and found them to vary by about 30 psi (140-170). While doing this I was unable to watch the rockers as I...
...switch like shuve it into the same spot on the large connector if the fuse mentioed above is blown you would be able to check if the car cranks over ect the dash lights should come on with the key turned to on such a wire might be 9 foot long and not be used forever.plus if you found the...
...the upgrade to a stronger shaft. Ran me about $400 for a complete new one.
If you go on YouTube and look up driveshafts that have failed you’ll understand why I mentioned this.
Also make sure the end of your crank can take a piñon bearing before digging in. Some cranks don’t make allowances.
Did you put the light in each plug wire? You can check to make sure the crank sensor is working by verifying it's reading 150 rpm while your cranking it over. If it isn't(like not reading at all), then your crank sensor/wiring could be at fault. If it is reading, then maybe your injectors are...
...to submerge the impeller. Apparently this engine can't accommodate muffs and a garden hose.
I unbolted the control set and switch panel. It cranks over just fine but doesn't send power to any of the places that matter. No spark. I have a Seloc manual but the wiring diagram sucks. When I get...
...are you saying that when you open and close the throttle, no fuel is coming out of the accelerator pump squirters? If so, the float bowl is empty so you either have a supply issue to the fuel pump or a bad fuel pump. What does your fuel pressure read when you crank the car after it stalls?
...11 today since I’m working tomorrow so decided to get some stuff done. Made some progress tonight.
Alt bracket on, flex plate on, realized the crank had a pilot bearing in it so to be on the safe side did the ol bread trick to pop it out. It’s officially in the car!
If any one is wondering...
i have an art carr 2004r.instructions say 1/8 to 3/16.i have just under 3/16.check your crank bolt learance,my pontiac 455 ended up hitting bolts to flex plate and beat the thrust bearing out of it.could clearly see bolt impressions on the converter.getting 426 hemi bolts to hep stop it from...
I remembered I have a starter button, so I popped it on the started. Engine cranks, but no start. I have no spark. More investigation is needed. Back to cleaning the garage.
...yachts got the LT1 with large chamber iron heads, don't let those confuse you. The aluminum headed F/Y bodies should have been right around 10.5:1. The 2 bolt block was the same between those, same crank, same pistons, same rods, different cam. There was also an iron headed 4.3L V8 LT1 lookalike.
...Glad to see there are used G body specific bell housings. This is my plan to pick these two up for my 70S. There is a good price on an Olds Hays flywheel but it is late crank bolt pattern only.
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