Search results for query: crank

The Lokar is very similar to my Canton pan mounted dipstick, except it is thread in.

Doing a quick armchair quarterback look in my '79 Olds CSM, all there will be is a 20 amp fuse that supports those ports right next to it. If there is an issue with back up lights or turn signals not working the it could be routed somewhere in the pink feed wire from the C100 bulkhead connector...

And I know two people that are taking vacation there this coming week. Must be getting ready for work as we don’t have A/C around the machines we run. 🤣 they’re too big and crank out almost 800* inside them.

I removed the alarm, and spliced the necessary wires back together under the dash. J hooked up my jumper box, and the engine cranked over, so I can can get back to buttoning that up. I also pulled most of the old sound system wiring out, while I was inside the car. Unfortunately I found a...

The car cranks and runs on starter fluid. It runs ok, no backfire, that's cool. But no fuel from the pump when I check at the carb. Needs to be investigated. I distinctly remember having checked that the OEM 87 GN camshaft I used for this engine had a fuel pump lobe. So maybe the pump is bad...

...Not sure if Steve Wood is active anymore...but he is an absolute wizard on diagnosing these types of issues. Also, I have a pile of ign modules and coil packs.....as well as a few cam sensors, crank sensors, ECMs....etc. I can send you a box of parts to try out if you pay shipping both ways.

...all I can come up with is I had the same problem with both motors and the only thing unchanged is the heads. Tomorrow I'm going to go grab the heads that came with the block and crank. There supposedly rebuild and never used so hopefully there good and fix the problem. I don't know what else...

See if there is 12V at the purple wire coming from the ignition switch when the key is in cranking position. Did the tab on the purple wire terminal break off so it is not engaging the terminal on the switch. G bodies use a mechanical lockout for neutral safety not an electrical switch.

Tci I’ll get a pic of it. Haven’t received engine back yet https://www.mastmotorsports.com/products/copy-of-lt-factory-mast-l8t-forged-polished-crankshaft-kit?variant=37591879483591

So......I'm getting a crank, no start when trying to fire it up for the first time. I've been checking, re-checking, and checking over and over. I've got to be missing something.

Excellent diagnostic strategy but I would also bring along a can of either or flammable brake cleaner. If it starts on one of these, start checking the fuel system. He's actually lucky that his problem isn't intermittent.

For spark plugs I gaped to 0.060 and replaced coil after the issue. My neighbor is a retired NAPA guy with 30+ years. Think I am going to try the ignition module and see how it goes.

Blueprint most likely machines the block to 0.030 overbore combined with a 3.75 crank makes it a 383.

Funny, i was just reading that last night. Ok hear me out. We’ve discovered if i crank the advance (well beyond a safe limit) the take-off shudder is almost gone. We’ve also discovered, at my normal timing settings, adding choke, the shudder is almost gone. During this, On the vac gauge the...

...this for months. Wouldn't start, just fire occasionally. Periodic back fire. Had air fuel and spark. Pulled the timing cover off and the crank and cam gear were aligned, all good there. Did a compression test and all cylinders were way down. So either the engine was junk or the timing...

...than an ls. Didnt need a hoist. Pulled the front tires and inner fenders and set the front on jack stands. I believe we had to get a new crank shaft pulley puller or just the arms for the old style puller. The rocker arm shafts are abit of a challenge to install. They do make a holder for...

I Like your Plate! LOL Hello from Hbg

...the loads. Either way, it's done and seems to be working great. edit: I realize this latest post provides no closure on the excessive cranking to start when cold starting. That issue may need to be put on the shelf for a while. We are in the middle of -30 C to -40 C temps this week, so...

...driveshaft hitting the loop. I added about 1" of clearance should be good now. Second, I thought the torque converter snout was hitting the crank, nope. I found the flexplate bolts not very tight, one was obviously loose. After stripping one tightening it, many hours later after dropping the...

...the round protrusion from the torque converter snout in the picture, it was hitting the the pilot bushing and mildly touching the inside of the crank as well. I am using 3 washers between the converter and flex plate, could probably fit 4, so there should be clearance at the pump and pilot area.