That’s funny right there.
Congrats on getting it running.
No one will throw you out for running faster than your cert until you get into a 9. The tracks will be good - need to let it rip!!
You should change the joint as well. If it's been driven with movement, then it's whipped. Perhaps it would be OK with a 200hp power plant, but aren't you racing this thing?
I called them when I bought my 1st set of DA Warriors. The rep was extremely helpful with initial settings for street and track use. The Warriors worked extremely well until 800-900whp. I contacted them when I needed something more and they directed me to my current shocks. I have zero...
I wouldn’t buy any trans from an internet site. But I also don’t buy anything from internet people (that I don’t know) that I can’t return.
I contact every vendor, on the phone, that I purchase from. If they make me feel uneasy in the conversation, then I leave them alone.
I’m glad it worked out. I had some minor stress about getting to D in good condition.
Do what we can to pay it forward - it was a pleasure to help out another guy that has the same interests as me. Others here have helped me - it made my day to read Donovan’s post.
You need a set of worn out rear springs lol (I’m not kidding.)
IIRC, I don’t believe a 275 will go into the wheel well of a Malibu without a frame notch. Again, if memory serves me correctly, it will take a 4.5 backspace with a thin spacer to get it close. From the looks of your picture, you...
IMO, with stock a-arms, don’t mess with the center link. Taller lower ball joints and working your caster and camber to eliminate as much as possible to keep the toe in check.
In the past 8-10 months I have been battling bump steer issues for straight line racing. It has been an educational...
Love thinking outside the box haha.
I bought a piece of square tubing the same dimensionally as the tube that came with it, and drilled it for the ‘safety bolt’. Works like a champ with a a couple of bags of tube sand above the rear wheels - cost about $40. My hoist works for everything except...
Cut the ‘ears’ off. They will be in the way and are unneeded. You really want a converter - the Jegs XD is great for the price and lower power levels.
If the trans works properly then it will last a long, long time at sub 600hp.
Those of you that have followed along with the car, you know that I’ve mentioned numerous times of changing goals……..because ‘it’s never fast enough.’ Well, I’m going to try to get to the cage certification - it’s going to run an 8.5_ if it kills me (hopefully the car doesn’t haha.)
Drag Week...
Still plugging away.
I pulled the heads and swapped the cam to Stage 4 Lunati turbo cam. I’ve only started the motor and idled for a short bit, but it runs. I ran a compression test before pulling the heads and all was good. When the heads came off everything looked great. I’ve relocated the...
To follow up, the cam is in the motor and idling (thank you NE winter). I degree’d
It and it seems like everything else a what I purchased. And it’s lumpy lol.
Oof. The TV cable controls line pressure, not shift points. It does change the rate of the shift process, aka shift feel. If it isn’t shiftng at WOT, then it’s broken. If the previous owner drove it spiritedly without the TV cable hooked up, then that’s game set match - needs to be gone through...
A stock master with a larger volume caliper will result in a deeper pedal. Not an issue if you don’t mind it , but an easy swap for the small bore booster is a Riviera master.
It f you change the rears to disc and the fronts to dual piston, then a caliper swap is a must if you want to have...
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