FTI is stepping up and said whoevers fault it is, it doesn't matter and I can ship what I got back to them on their cost and they will ship me a 27 spline correct unit, good service on their end.
My problem is that I pulled the trans out of the car Thursday and couldn't get the converter off...
Well after soul searching (and searching my email inbox)
I was delivered the wrong converter.
Not sure if I wasn't clear to the sales guy, he didn't understand, fat fingers, IDK, but they built a 30 spline converter. I need a 27 spline. I didn't look at the invoice in detail enough to see that...
It's probably fine. A china made Timken isn't any worse than SKF, Schaeffler or anything else made recently. A 1990's Timken sure but today they are all the same.
The big difference between old timken and new timken is that old Timken used to do their steel & bearing manufacturing under the...
Well I've been plugging away and got the car started Sunday. The wheels didn't turn but I ran out of trans fluid, the level was low, so I chocked that up to low level.
Added another few qts last night and it's full, but the wheels still don't spin.
I have great line pressure, 110psi at idle...
I have a 3 speed center console shifter gear indicator plate in my cutlass. It originally came with a th200
I have a 2004r in the car and I swapped the detent plate out for the 2004r one so I have all 4 gears that align to the trans.
Obviously the detents don't line up with the gear indicator...
More diddly squat update.
Replaced the combo rubber/steel trans cooler lines dad and I built 15 years ago with some gm steel bent set I pulled outta the 2+2. The rubber hoses were too long for the 2004r as they were for the th350 I originally had in the car. Spent too much time cleaning off the...
Swapped speedometer gears, between the 2 2004rs I had I was able to make a set that will work for a 3.73 gear
Installed trans filter
Calibrated dipstick, this is a th350 bop stick and it was 1.75" too short. Oil level should be 1/4" above the pan rail.
Installed rear and sway bar
Installed...
Those are my pictures when the bar was on my 2+2. I took another set last night of the bar on my cutlass but it's identical. There was a guy on here that used a different end link and yeah, he also welded another brace in the top to support the end link. I got lazy on both my 2+2 and the cutlass...
I literally just installed that blazer bar on my cutlass Sunday.
I had it on my 2+2 for ~4yrs but it launches to hard at the track and was overcoming the stiffness of the blazer bar and I swapped to a CPP bar.
Anyways, yes, and 2 DR, 4wd or 2wd bar works. I have it on an 8.5: and it's fine...
Bought new axle shafts and that solved my wiggly rotor issue. Buttoned up the brake lines and filled the rear with some 80/90
Replaced bushings in the control arms and installed the rear in the car.
I need to get the speedometer gear swapped and trans filter on and the trans can go back in the...
This is the aftermarket adjustable one I mentioned. If I swapped from an OEM cast iron one, that's one of the few I would consider. I ended up putting my OEM cast iron one back on (with the residual pressure valve removed) and reinstalled on my 2+2 after the brass one failed for my rear disk...
Sample size of one,
but my aftermarket brass disk-disk prop valve failed the first time I pressed the pedal. All the aftermarket ones look the same at a wide range in price difference. There are 2 options, either all of them are made by the same company and reboxed under different names and...
No, I have Moser 30 splines in it now because it has a 30 spline carrier. This bent axle is a moser 30 spline, really surprised to see it's bent as severely as it is on the center. Tempted to give them a call and ask because I would not expect an aftermarket axle to do that.
I need to...
Pulled the driver's side axle out again tonight and checked for bend.
Turns out it's crooked as a politician.
.055" of runout in the middle. Not going to turn that into spec. I bet it would shake and take out the bearings if I were to run it. Scrap.
That's the line I made just cutting the old one with a tube cutter and bending the new one using the old one as a reference.
I did the same thing on my wagon in like 2017.
I just went through replacing a section of that line on my cutlass because the fitting had rusted to the hose that goes to the rear end and it twisted the line off when I went to replace the hose.
I put a splice right in front of the LCA mount in the frame. I was able to snake the OEM steel...
I installed the brakes later last week and the drivers side rotor was intermittently hitting the caliper bracket. I assumed the rotor was warped, it was, but only slightly.
Checked the axle flange and it was wobbly by about .030". Chucked it in the lathe and squared it up and it's better but...
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