1 5/8 vs 1 3/4 primarys

[jrm81bu]

[yes the "crap that tons of people" with crossovers to make 'proven' power is bullshit. Maybe I should of used a different word to attract less attention. Where is all this undeniable proof, and that the vehicle in question didn't install unrestrictive duals in the first place. Adding restriction in the exhaust pipe by crossing exhaust pulses doesn't make extra power for the price.

You want proof? Ask Shotgun.
More restriction? Ridiculous.
Worth the cost? Up to the indidvidual. I've seen people on this site claim their exhaust cost 500 plus to get done. I paid 250 for mine with an x-pipe, then another 100 for mufflers. Plus it's all stainless. Look like I may have saved money going with an x-pipe setup.

 

[custom442]

[yes the "crap that tons of people" with crossovers to make 'proven' power is bullshit. Maybe I should of used a different word to attract less attention. Where is all this undeniable proof, and that the vehicle in question didn't install unrestrictive duals in the first place. Adding restriction in the exhaust pipe by crossing exhaust pulses doesn't make extra power for the price.

You want proof? Ask Shotgun.
More restriction? Ridiculous.
Worth the cost? Up to the indidvidual. I've seen people on this site claim their exhaust cost 500 plus to get done. I paid 250 for mine with an x-pipe, then another 100 for mufflers. Plus it's all stainless. Look like I may have saved money going with an x-pipe setup.

u always get on my ridiculous comments 😛
Shotgun would make more power with headers.
Duals would've cost 140$ with 110$ cable cutouts, saves u money. More Power!!!

 

[jrm81bu]

u always get on my ridiculous comments 😛
Shotgun would make more power with headers.
Duals would've cost 140$ with 110$ cable cutouts, saves u money. More Power!!!

Shotgun has back to back dyno results, that's what you asked for.
It's kinda hard to drive around all the time with open headers. Cable cutouts are a pain. Electric ones are expensive. With a proper x-pipe there is still power to be made over headers. Besides this is about full dual exhaust versus full x-pipe exhaust.
I had duals before. No extra power. My x-pipe makes at least the same power and offers less noise.
Back to cost-my dual setup cost me less than 70 to make including mufflers. However I had to make it. The pypes system I have now is quite reasonably priced for a bolt in kit. Especially seeing as how there are only about 3 manufacturers offering kits for the g-body.

 

[moose]

My x-pipe makes at least the same power and offers less noise.

The original reason I wanted an H was just to tone down the exhaust. Then I read this article and am thinking of going for the X since I have to replace the pipe to the mufflers anyway.

 

[84sbcregal23deg]

[yes the "crap that tons of people" with crossovers to make 'proven' power is bullshit. Maybe I should of used a different word to attract less attention. Where is all this undeniable proof, and that the vehicle in question didn't install unrestrictive duals in the first place. Adding restriction in the exhaust pipe by crossing exhaust pulses doesn't make extra power for the price.

You want proof? Ask Shotgun.
More restriction? Ridiculous.
Worth the cost? Up to the indidvidual. I've seen people on this site claim their exhaust cost 500 plus to get done. I paid 250 for mine with an x-pipe, then another 100 for mufflers. Plus it's all stainless. Look like I may have saved money going with an x-pipe setup.

i agree. i made an exhaust for my car with one of those universal X setups and a pair of dyno max ultra flow mufflers. the universal X pipe setup was $80, given its not stainless and the mufflers were $70 each. two lengths of 2.5 or 3 inch pipe long enough to connect the headers to the mufflers is anywhere from $25-$40. so for $40 more you get a quieter exhaust that is never gonna make any less power, and most of the time make more power than an un-equalized system. even if it makes 4 hp more, thats where it gets easy to pick up power cheap. something came up about the electric water pump also. same principal, even if that makes 2 hp more, now you made 6 hp more than you had. its all the little things that add up to make significant gains, and most of them are cheap, and don't hurt drivability.

 

[BrianDennis]

The (amount of) horsepower is certainly a deciding factor for header size, but most guys that don't drag race are fairly generous when estimating the power of their street car. Or possibly just repeating what their engine guy guessed it to be.
At any rate, 95% of the street-driven hot rods today only need a 1-5/8 header. The smaller tube creates more torque that a heavier street-legal car needs, the bolts are typically easier to get in and tighten, and are usually cheaper to buy.
My 80 (drag only) Malibu has run 10.57 at nearly 126 mph with my "good" 406 wearing 1-3/4 tube Hookers w/ 17" collectors and shifted at 6600. My "spare" is not much more than a street motor (355 with 10.5-10.75 compression, hyd Lunati shifted at 6200). It will run 11.8's with the big headers. A set of 1-5/8 street tubes will pick it up to 11.6's. The car weighs 3105 ready to race - the electric windows still work.

 

[G_Body_Enthusiast]

i dont remember the exact issue because i have 10 years of car craft but i do remember an article about 7 years ago maybe that did a comparison of crossovers, all on one car and included open pipes. x crossovers tended to produce more torque vs h crossovers however not all produced the same results. one company with an x did better than another company with an x as well. i dont remember the names but they are brand name i can remember that. you can get them at summit or jegs mostly.

the power gained was up to like 20 ft lbs of torque i think at the most. in fact i'm going to look for this article and give you hard numbers on this. this may take a few days, it was a small article.

 

[454muscle]

So i'll have 1.75" primarys into a 3" collector, into a 2.25" pipe to the muffler and exit with 2.5"
What kind of bad things can I expect from this ridiculous setup? I want an H-pipe to help with noise levels and am going to replace the mufflers with either Aero Turbines or Hooker Aeros. Should I just have the smaller 2.25 pipes replaced with 2.5 while I have the car at the muffler shop?

Not so rediculous really bro. Honestly it's just fine. Now if it were me, just being honest, it might bother me even though the 2.25/2.5 pipe difference would be totally neglibible and I'd end up asking about the price difference to upsize the 2.25 to 2.5. However I'd only be doing this for personal preference and not because of any HP numbers etc..

So if there is a huge price difference, don't bother doing any change, and just make sure you get that H-pipe in there. Once it's all done it'll both perform and sound awesome.