1968 350 olds power mods and trans

[cutloosecutlass81]

hi im new to this forum and my name is justin im 21 and this is my first major engine build so ill list everything that is done to the engine it is a 1968 350 olds not the w-31 but anyways here we go

engine details:
.030 over
#5 heads shaved and ported stainless valves 1.875/1.500 comp valve springs comp roller tip rockers 1.6 ratio 3/8 stud i believe
block has been decked
edelbrock performer rpm intake
sportman probe flat top forged pistons with two valve reliefs
stock connecting rods with arp bolts every bolt has been replaced with arp's
comp cam lift .520/.523 duration 274/286 hydraulic flat tappet
stock crank
high performance aluminum miloden water pump
miloden high volume oil pump
proform street/strip distributor
160 degree thermostat
comp cams hi tech double roller timing chain
fluidamper harmonic balancer
march serpentine kit
flowtech 1 3/4 primary tubes 3inch collectors to a 3 inch exhaust ceramic coated
summit racing high torque mini starter
stock flywheel
75hp shot of nitrous
11:1 compression
750 edelbrock performer series carb
tci streetfighter th 350 trans with 2500 rpm stall converter

now my question what bolt ons or how can i squeeze a little extra hp out of my engine without going nuts on money?
and i want the extra gear so is a tci 200-4r swap worth it?

my engine wanted me to drop the 3:73's i have in the rear and put 3:42's in im also gonna put a mini spool in with lakewood traction bars just need a little help on my 2 questions the engine was built to 475-500hp or atleast he's trying to get me close to it

 

[86-blk442]

It sounds like a decent combo but, your horsepower expectations seem a little unrealistic. I'd say maybe 350 horse 400 torque at the flywheel without the nitrous. The small valves may not help too much either. I had 1.995/1.625 W31 valves put in my #5's. I think you should re-evaluate your goals with this engine and make some changes if you want to make that kind of power. That will cost a lot of money to produce that out of a 350 especially with tiny valved iron heads. It's not realistic you would have to drop thousands into the heads alone... Might as well go aluminum and while you are at it get a 455.

If you are looking for ways to make more power with the Olds engine I suggest you visit Olds Power, and High Performance Olds. Get Bill Trovato's book too. I have it and have been to his shop and had him build my #5 heads.

As far as the 200-4R goes, another member on here has said it best many times, and even to me at one point when I had a th350. "3 speeds are for restorations, low budget builds and race cars". If you have the opportunity to get an overdrive do it and run the lockup especially with the higher stall converter. No loss in efficiency, no extra heat, and still some economy. Running the high stall in OD unlocked will produce some major heat. It's nice to run at 55 turning around 1800 rpm with 3.73's.

 

[olds307 and 403]

Get the big valves put in, although Procomp or Edelbrock's would have been way better for what you want. Get the valves transitioned into port and a max effort port job. Also make sure you put a very good radiator in. Get a 2004R built by Extreme Automatics or CK etc to build you one to your specs. Keep the 3.73 gears, 3.42's are very mild with an OD.

 

[shanghaismith]

now my question what bolt ons or how can i squeeze a little extra hp out of my engine without going nuts on money?
and i want the extra gear so is a tci 200-4r swap worth it?

A well built 200-4R is well worth the cost. Keep the 3.73 gears. The lowest cost mod for more HP & TQ will me a bigger set of nitrous jets. (if your fuel system is up to the task)

 

[cutloosecutlass81]

couldnt i save myself some time by getting a tci 2004r instead of getting on built since theyre already built i mean its kinda costly but i have all winter to save up since the engine isnt goin in til spring or beggining of summer

 

[jetsetw31]

The TCI unit isn't that bad for cruzin. but I've heard bad things when they are used behind serious power. I agree with having your heads ported to the max and putting bigger valves in them. To have that kind of power from the olds 350, it has to rev with a ceiling of about 6600 rpm. Your cam is on the right track, but now you have to build the motor to work with it. It's almost W31 spec. The set up your going for looses the 350's street manners and the W31 wasn't a street friendly motor.
T

 

[jetsetw31]

BTW, what intake do you have? A "A4" or a "A5"? The A4 works with a 350, the A5 does not because of the small ports. Just letting you know.
T

 

[cutloosecutlass81]

i have the edelbrock performer rpm intake my valves springs timing chain and rockers are matched to the cam so are a few other odds and ends i wanted to bigger valves but couldnt afford it so i just went with a set of high performance stainless valves i forget the name brand on them though

 

[86-blk442]

194h is the factory muscle grind and the 280h (cam I just pulled out of my sbo 355) are the comp replacements for the w31 cam. The 280 had horrible street manners and no power below 3000 rpm. The cam you are going with is a bit more mild. Should have better manners. Another note, I don't know that I would rev a stock rotating assembly much past 5500. These tend to be more low end torque motors, not high revving screamers.

What are your intentions with this engine? Cruise? Drag?

 

[cutloosecutlass81]

no theyre just matched to the cam i have in there now i dont plan on running it high often just once in a blue moon to have fun but not often car wont be driven much after break in maybe 3 or 4 times a week if that