1980 Cutlass BBO header problems

[Bigdaddy198]

I have a1980 Cutlass with a 461"
BB olds its been a drag car for quite some time and my headers are rusting out at the bottom I was told that hooker supercomps for older Cutlass will work but I need to know if a pair of 3201 Hookers would work or what do I need to do to make them work. Thanks I know a G body Guru will have the answer.!!!

 

[truracer20]

The only headers I know of that easily fit a stock G body chassis with a BBO are the Hooker 3203 and similar that have one tube on each side that goes around the outside of the frame rail and reduces turn radius. I always made a new steering shaft similar to what we used on dirt stock cars, you do have to keep the collapsible part functional unless you have a full cage. That allowed me to use headers designed for the chassis with a SBO. Even with the steering shaft work required it was still more cost effective than the above style headers and at that time in the mid 90's I believe there was only one manufacturer of that style header and they were expensive. The major interference area when using SBO headers on a BBO in an 80 Cutlass is the steering shaft and I believe the rear mount for the front lower control arms. A little grinding on the LCA mounts and a little heating and tweaking with a torch and they fit like a champ.
I do believe the A body headers need a tube or two relocated in order to fit. But if you can weld and fabricate it can be done.
For absolute performance I would go with the Hookers or Dick Miller parts.
For simplicity I would go with W/Z manifolds.
The first time I put a BBO into a G body I used the stock Delta 88 manifolds that came on the engine and just capped the crossover hole.

 

[Blake442]

Just get the Hooker's for a G-body.
The reduction in turning radius is tiny, and with those thin drag wheels I doubt it will ever be an issue for you.
They're a bit pricey, but not as bad as Kooks and they require no mods like the other options mentioned.

 

[jetsetw31]

Just get the Hooker's for a G-body.
The reduction in turning radius is tiny, and with those thin <span class="skimwords-potential">drag wheels</span><span style="position: absolute; "></span><span style="position: absolute; "></span> I doubt it will ever be an issue for you.
They're a bit pricey, but not as bad as Kooks and they require no mods like the other options mentioned.

X2. Plus since you race the car you want the flow of BBO headers. SBO headers are smaller and can choke a BBO.
T

 

[Bigdaddy198]

I got a quote on getting a set of stainless headers made to fit inside the rails and are fully tuned they are pricey but will last longer than I will. I plan on splitting my rebuild budget this year between the front end and the rear end just want to get rid of some weight off the car so I am going to a ladder bar set up. Keeping my 12 bolt but swapping the 4.11 gears for a 4.30 gear and new headers and tubular A arms up front that should get her firmly planted on the ground.