It's a lobe on the cam, just behind the 1st journal. I guess it's theoretically possible for it to go flat but I've never seen it happen.
1983 Big Block Monte Slow Build (Lowered Expectations)
- Thread starter Supercharged111
- Start date
It seems unlikely to me that it went flat over the course of me changing pumps around, thanks for eliminating the variable of a piece of unknown to me hardware having fallen out. I also discovered there's a bolt in the front of the engine I can remove and replace with something longer that will hold that pushrod in place. I'll do that before re-removing the original pump.
I never would’ve believed it, but it actually is possible. The 350 engine I bought used locally for Olds Cool had that lobe ground completely flat when I got it. Needless to say, the block got a very thorough cleaning before I replaced the camshaft and continued assembling it.
I’ve never seen anything like that before.
Unfortunate but I only have 454 TBI unit to look at. The Mark/Gen V only came with a electric pump. But started writing this earlier, seems like you found a possible answer.
Pic of front of Mark IV. See the top bolt hole just behind mounting of Fuel Pump? See if that is drilled all the way through.
On the Small Block it comes from factory with a short 1/2 to 3/4 long 3/8 course thread bolt. You push the rod up with your finger or screwdriver and secure the rod by inserting a longer bolt. The longer bolt (1 1/2 x 3/8 Course Thread), makes contact with rod and you just snug up the bolt to keep the rod from sliding back down. Once the rod is secured, you replace the pump and you don't have to fight against the spring, and you ensure the rod will be in contact with the pump arm.
Once pump is secured to block, remove the longer bolt and replace with the short one or you will have bad oil leak.
The other two pics is small block setup.
Pic of front of Mark IV. See the top bolt hole just behind mounting of Fuel Pump? See if that is drilled all the way through.
On the Small Block it comes from factory with a short 1/2 to 3/4 long 3/8 course thread bolt. You push the rod up with your finger or screwdriver and secure the rod by inserting a longer bolt. The longer bolt (1 1/2 x 3/8 Course Thread), makes contact with rod and you just snug up the bolt to keep the rod from sliding back down. Once the rod is secured, you replace the pump and you don't have to fight against the spring, and you ensure the rod will be in contact with the pump arm.
Once pump is secured to block, remove the longer bolt and replace with the short one or you will have bad oil leak.
The other two pics is small block setup.
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I've seen cam lobes go flat never a FP eccentric, that's a lot of metal to wear down.
Seen on Ford 302 small block cam gear bolt backs out. Still manages to keep timing gear on but FP eccentric will free spin and pump stops pumping.
Seen on Ford 302 small block cam gear bolt backs out. Still manages to keep timing gear on but FP eccentric will free spin and pump stops pumping.
Mine is none of the above, but first let's trudge through mein kampf for today.
I started by removing the rubber line from the pump and bent up a hard line to replace it. It was a sharp bend that had it always almost kinked. That did nothing, but it's a more proper fix. I need my die set to come in though so I can double flare the other end and make it complete. In the meantime it's a mess with the pressure gauge still teed in.
Next up I took a scrap of fuel line, hooked it to the pump inlet, and dropped the other end in a gas can. This also did nothing. Time to watch the pump pushrod run through its range of motion. After struggling way too much to jump the starter, I noticed the rod didn't move at all. I tapped it in a little bit, rolled it over, and the thing got pushed out a little once and that was it. Then it wouldn't come out, so I figured if the timing cover was coming off may as well pound it in farther. That also accomplished nothing and I didn't want to yank the timing cover any more then than before, so I found this lifesaver of a YouTube video after failing miserably with needle nose pliers as they were all I could fit in there.
Shoved a 12mm wrench over the shaft and wiggled it right on out. The end that was in the block was dinged up so I flipped it and put it back in, same deal. Had to push it in far enough to fit the wrench on to wiggle it back out again. Brought it home, put it in the drill to clean up with a Scotch Brite, and lo and behold the m'fer is bent! I don't think I applied enough ignorance to bend the thing? We'll see.
I started by removing the rubber line from the pump and bent up a hard line to replace it. It was a sharp bend that had it always almost kinked. That did nothing, but it's a more proper fix. I need my die set to come in though so I can double flare the other end and make it complete. In the meantime it's a mess with the pressure gauge still teed in.
Next up I took a scrap of fuel line, hooked it to the pump inlet, and dropped the other end in a gas can. This also did nothing. Time to watch the pump pushrod run through its range of motion. After struggling way too much to jump the starter, I noticed the rod didn't move at all. I tapped it in a little bit, rolled it over, and the thing got pushed out a little once and that was it. Then it wouldn't come out, so I figured if the timing cover was coming off may as well pound it in farther. That also accomplished nothing and I didn't want to yank the timing cover any more then than before, so I found this lifesaver of a YouTube video after failing miserably with needle nose pliers as they were all I could fit in there.
Shoved a 12mm wrench over the shaft and wiggled it right on out. The end that was in the block was dinged up so I flipped it and put it back in, same deal. Had to push it in far enough to fit the wrench on to wiggle it back out again. Brought it home, put it in the drill to clean up with a Scotch Brite, and lo and behold the m'fer is bent! I don't think I applied enough ignorance to bend the thing? We'll see.
Ouch. The big block and small block is the same... 5.75 inch long. They run about $12 USD.
The kinked line acts just like partial or full obstruction, depending on how badly kinked.
I'm glad you didn't pull the front cover all the way, you would not be able to see anything.
The kinked line acts just like partial or full obstruction, depending on how badly kinked.
I'm glad you didn't pull the front cover all the way, you would not be able to see anything.
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Yanking the cover was not going to be a yesterday thing, so glad it didn't come to that. If this has been bent all along the original pump seems unlikely to blame if travel was obstructed. I'll grab a rod today, but not sure if I can make it to the car or not.
Got it running with a new pushrod. That one slid right in by hand and gave a nice thunk when it contacted the cam lobe. Idles around 8-9 psi, cruises 7, and still runs out of fuel but the 40gph unit seems to stave that point off ever so slightly. It WOT upshifted at 5100 with 4psi and a second or so later when I lifted it was down to 2 but hadn't farted yet. I'll have to look again, but the thing was doing 70 when I lifted and I really just let it settle into second and pretty much lifted after that. Hits good and hard in 2nd for something bone stock I must say. So I guess the next step is to replace that back half of suction line and repeat the test.
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