Wonder how long that has been going on. Glad you found it and confirmed that you need more pump - ain’t that a ****, eh?
What’s the plan to keep it in fuel?
What’s the plan to keep it in fuel?
Wonder how long that has been going on. Glad you found it and confirmed that you need more pump - ain’t that a ****, eh?
What’s the plan to keep it in fuel?
I use those brass bulkhead connectors/line splice fittings.Nicop is a bit spendy, but a roll of aluminum is a bit cheaper. Probably go that route. How might a guy flare the end to clamp a hose over it?
Yesterday I swapped a shim from the front to the rear on the left side to kill the slight leftward drift the car had. I couldn't verify if it was fixed or not as it was a bit windy yesterday but I did get the steering wheel 99% centered now that it has a hub that isn't stripped and the wheel stays clocked the same all the time. Can't really get it bang on until the rag joint slop is gone. Also discovered that the PS leak is the reservoir I just installed, not the box. Because I love doing stuff twice.
Love it. That's much better than simply making a flare and throwing a clamp on.I use those brass bulkhead connectors/line splice fittings.
Put the tubing & ferrule into the female side of the fitting. Thread the male side in to set the depth of the ferrule on the tubing while crimping it in place. Once seated, remove the male portion of the fitting & carefully grind off the female shell leaving just the crimped ferrule on the tubing. Your hose can easily but pushed over the ferrule & a worm-gear clamp over the hose beyond the ferrule keeps things in place w/o issue.
Trickiest part is grinding the female portion of the union off. You just need to burn through enough to twist the remainder off w/dikes or pliers. I do it this way because the crimped ferrules are consistent & the brass stuff is cheap enough. My neighbor did the 2nd part of the double flare for this stuff. When I showed him my crimped ferrule method, he said he actually likes it better w/steel tubing, Softer materials/tubing does fold easier but the 'lip' is @ the very end of the line vs 1/4 - 3/8" up (more hose over the line after the 'bead' that helps keep it in place).Yeah it is, but I saw a suggestion to try and slide a die over the end of the line and only perform the 2nd part of a double flare to get it to bubble out. I'm curious to see how that'd turn out. Time to see if I have any scrap laying around to try it on. I think I have enough compression union crap laying around to do Scoti's method too, but I wouldn't need to practice that one.
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