1986 Monte Carlo SS Restomod LS3/4L80e

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I then moved on to the replacement of the T-Top header panel. This was the only rust on the body. T-tops are notorious for rotting out. The process was to drill out every factory spot weld and size up your cut on the A pillar from the new header panel. The replacement panel I purchased from Mikes Montes website. It fit perfectly. The factory fused the A pillar to the header panel with lead. I chose all metal filler when I went to bond it back. Not sure if that is idea, but I've been using All metal for 15 years and its never let me down. I drilled as many plug weld holes in the header panel as the factory used. Tig weld would be better but a mig welder works just fine. make sure to use a welding blanket over anything you don't want burnt from slag. Use a weld through primer before you weld. It will help prevent future rust. A rust preventative should be used after the welding. I use one from Permatex.
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I totally suck at this forum stuff. LOL. Sorry for not keeping things up to date.

Time to get things cleaned up. I started with the under body. Luckily I had zero rust issues in the floor. It took me a whole weekend of sand and using a heavy wire wheel to clean up 30 years of grease and road grime. Good luck cleaning. I looked like a coal miner after doing mine. Once it was all clean I coated it with truck bed liner from O'Reilly. I'm pretty happy with it. If it ever chips I'll recoat no problems.

Back to the frame. Yes I boxed in the frame, did the frame notch and made rear support bracing out of 1.5 1/8" and 3/16" tubing. I made my own template out of cardboard for the notch and the boxing of the frame. It wasn't easy but it saved me a ton of money. I went to the local metal yard and bought a 4x8 sheet of 1/8" and a 3x3 piece of 3/16". The 3/16" was used to make my version of the UMI shock tower brace. I have a total of $123 invested in this. If you frame notch, DO NOT CUT THE FRAME FIRST. Set your frame as level as possible. I started boxing in first. I cut my templates and transferred it over to the 1/8" sheet. Busted out the sawzaw and the cut off wheel and went to town. Once cut I welded in place. I then moved to the shock tower brace. Again made a template from cardboard and transferred over to the 3/16" sheet. It's important, from what I've researched, to have this piece if you are to run coilovers. Once I cut my 2 pieces out, I then drilled holes to match the shock mount holes. I bolted it in place then measured out the bar to connect the two 3/16" pieces. Measured 50x's to cut once. Haha. Welder up! That being finished I welded up 2 pieces of tubing. One up top and the other just below the shock towers. The pictures will show. Took a piece of tubing and welded it to the top and bottom pieces. Looking back I would hade triangulated two pieces. Now to the notch. I cut my frame at the top and bottom right on the seam. I measured the cut wide enough for large tire options. You never know. Made templates from cardboard and transfered over to the 1/8" sheet. Cut then set it up to be burned in. You may have to do this in pieces. I also cut out three gussets per side and welded them in the center of the frame notch. It would be easier unless you are a tradesman in metal fab. I am not. But I managed. Once it was all welded in the frame was cleaned up and coated with POR15 chassis black.

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