1987 Cutlass Salon floor shifter 85mph rallye gauge cluster removal and LED bulb replacement

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All back in. Perfect!!!!
what i learned: All 13 bulbs replaced with T-10 LEDs from Yorkim. Idiot lights, turn signals, bright indicator and guages all look. perfectly bright!!! No “pinks or whites” where red or amber should be. I took a leap of faith and am amazed. No polarity issues. No failed bulbs. Bulbs are “360” technology. ( light disbursement)
I realized after the fact that i could’ve tested each new “bulb” in a side marker socket.
speedo cable and wires attached to cluster with a screw required finesse and slowness to think it through.
Iwhen i placed the cluster back in finally, the guages all read wrong. 10 seconds later i thought: let me gently push cluster in as if screws were in and tight. Magic! All guages work. Test ride after completed: Perfect. Ill post some nighttime pix and then stop belaboring this thread. Thank You All
 

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That cluster clip where the circuit board connects can be a bit problematic. Forgot to tell you about that. Sometimes the contact points get cruddy and a pencil eraser works well to get rid of the gunk. So does jiggling the cluster as you found out. That clip set needs to be all up in them guts to make a good connection. Glad it worked out for you.

You shoulda made a video so you would have something to point others to when they want to do the same thing.
 
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It’s nice to have clean clear light for the gauges. I did notice your volts and oil gauges don’t appear to be working. Is that correct?
 
That cluster clip where the circuit board connects can be a bit problematic. Forgot to tell you about that. Sometimes the contact points get cruddy and a pencil eraser works well to get rid of the gunk. So does jiggling the cluster as you found out. That clip set needs to be all up in them guts to make a good connection. Glad it worked out for you.

You shoulda made a video so you would have something to point others to when they want to do the same thing.
yes. but there may have been some cursing on my vid😀
It’s nice to have clean clear light for the gauges. I did notice your volts and oil gauges don’t appear to be working. Is that correct?
Pic taken just by putting lights on, not engine. All is good as when started up! Rpm, odo, oil, temp, volts, gasoline..
And you are Soooo right about the availability of the park light screw!!!!
 
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Does anyone have a quality video of someone doing this? Youtube vids are crappy. Ive looked at a dozen plus already. Total number of bulbs needed? are all 168/194 equivalent? (sylvania LED 168/194 a good bulb?)
Is the speedo cable a problem?
Thanks in advance
All Done. Ive had that cluster out twice now. All Led installed !! Bright as anything. The turn signals (led) are true color and the idiot lights (led) still are red and yellow. The only old school lights in my car at this time are the BRAKE LIGHTS and TURN SIGNALS (1156/1157) brand spanking new ! I trust these bulbs for flashing and double lens duty better than new LED.
I took the cluster out the second time to REPAIR THE TACHOMETER!!!! Never did i dream that i would perform this "surgery!" My tach was showing idle at 1200 and red lining often just simply driving around locally. Clearly, it was wrong! After Pulling it out . I removed the factory jumper ( on the lower V8 contacts) and I soldered in a permanent small copper wire (from an outlet ) PROBLEM SOLVED! The fix is on youtube on how to exactly do this. Idle at 600-700, shift points correct now!
 
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