350 build up- what do you think?

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Wildmani

Master Mechanic
Sep 17, 2010
294
41
28
Brantford, Ontario, Canada
I'm going to be swapping the stock 267 in my '79 Lemans for a '69 300hp L-48 350 that came out of a '69 Chev wagon. I'm getting the engine for free and it's in great shape. It's in pieces now but when it was together and in the car it ran great. I was originally planning on trying to get 325-350hp but I stumbled across this article (http://www.popularhotrodding.com/engine ... _dyno.html) and I'm very interested in the results they got. Now I'm thinking about trying the same stuff they did, they peaked at 412hp. The only difference is their engine had 9:1 compression and the engine I'm getting is supposed to have 10.25:1 stock, so I don't think I'll do the head change. I want to keep my budget a bit on the low side but I also don't want to skimp out on the important stuff. I'm also planning on going with something like an MSD system for ignition, and I'm obviously putting headers on as well. Any advice as to cost effective but also good quality ignition systems and headers? Also, how much hp do you lose from engine dyno hp to rear wheel hp?
 
well, if you change the heads it won't change your compression ratio, as the heads on your L-48 are also 64cc, the thing about magazine articles is that if you did that your self you would be down about 30hp and 30 Ib ft. They used some big *ss headers with an electric water pump and huge carb (some guys like 750s on straight street 350s but I never have) So those are things to consider as well. I'm not sure of your budget but roller cams are expensive, I've gotten reallly lucky and picked up a whole set up for 150 bucks but if you were to buy new it would be around 800-850 dollars, I would spend money on the RHS heads and put a flat tappet cam in that way you'll have some bad *ss heads and a great cam, not a great cam and alright heads. For the ignition system, find a cheap HEI on www.craiglook.com then go to autozone and get a MSD cap and rotor, then buy a new coil. From Flywheel horsepower to WHP you'll loose abouy 16-18% but it depends on what you have, it could be less it could be more.
 
Thanks! I kinda wondered about the carb being a little large. I used to have an '81 Z28 project a few years ago, the problem with it was that I took some bad advice, didn't do enough research, and cheaped out on a lot. It ran good and it was fairly quick but I think I could have done a lot better. I started it off with a 750 holley and when I downgraded to a 600 Edelbrock it ran much better. This time I want to do it right, my goal of 325 to 350hp (or even 375hp) is still my goal, I just thought if I could get more why not lol! What I really want is a cruiser that I can have some fun with, not planning on taking it to the track or anything. As far as the budget goes, I don't even know what it is, I just want to spend as little as possible and still get the results I want the right way. I'd be happy with mid 300's for hp. I guess what I should be asking is what I should be using with the stock block and heads to get it? I was originally intending to use a performer RPM air gap intake, a 600 Edelbrock, and a new cam. I'm just not sure which cam I should use to get my numbers.
 
well a good street motor would be one like that article. That would be a very happy motor and run 12's you could drive it everyday and be happy. Those heads you have now would be great for about 350ish max with a big cam, just look at your budget and do some research there tons of things you can do to get a good motor
 
I agree with SS on his points but also add you should check the parts you have, see what shape they are in. You said it's in pieces so now is a good time to check the block and heads for cracks, bore taper, check the rods, crank and the like. Cleaning up the heads, new valve guides & seals. Vortecs are a good alternative too but the RHS are nice. Patriot has a reasonably priced set of aluminum heads too. You just have to decide what you're going to keep, how much to recondition vs new and go from there.

With the Edelbrock pieces they have packages - cam/lifters, intake and carb. You can maybe save with the cam/lifters by checking what other manufacturers have that have comparable numbers to theirs or ask for recommendations.

I would also budget money for the "might as wells", "oh craps" and the "that wasn't broken when I took it off / I can't find its".
 
Again, thanks for the advice. I'm definetely going to have everything checked for cracks, etc. I'm actually thinking about getting one of my local engine shops to assemble the whole deal. I've done top end work before but there's a lot to screw up on in the bottom end lol! The more I think about it, I think I'm just going to keep the stock heads (rebuilt of course). Like I said, I'm on a budget (when I say that I just mean I'd like to do everything right, but as cheap as I can lol) and the car is just going to be a cruiser. I'm not going to be racing, I just want something I can play around with on the street and has some balls. This is also a "father/son" project that I'm using to spend time with him now that he's a teenager. So far I'm thinking stock block and heads, performer RPM air gap intake, Edelbrock 600 carb, I'm just stuck on how much cam I need to give it as much balls as possible but still be streetable.
 
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