As far as I know its stock. I picked the car up about a month or so ago, so still learning about it all the time
350 Rocket For Drag
- Thread starter Jax86Cutlass
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A 350 Olds is a stout engine, strong and beefy. Parts cost a little more. I would go with a set of headers and nice exhaust first, you will rewarded and reminded of the money you spent every time you drive or start the car (plus usually a dual exhaust style transmission crossmember).
Start thinking about suspension stuff to make the car hook, like rear control arms, hop stop bars, etc. A posi unit. Consider upgrading to 28 spline replacement axles for a Turbo Buick 8.5 and a matching 28 spline posi unit for a 93 up Camaro/Firebird. Most, if not all, G-body cars are came from the factory missing the lower half of the body bushings, really inexpensive upgrade it to get a set for a Turbo Regal and install them. If you make the most of what you have now, make it hook up and leave, whenever you upgrade the engine it will just be faster.
Another route would be a simple nitrous plate system. Set it up to run at 125 horse and have all sorts of fun, as long as you follow the installation and tuning instructions.
I would look for an aluminum intake manifold like an Eldelbrock Performer or Performer RPM. I would also start too look for a 403 or 455, this is where some guys get offended or defensive, but, you can score a whole 403 or 455 for what an new intake and carb would cost. All the parts you buy for a 350 will work on a 403, so, once you score an engine, you can build it to match what you want, while driving the 350.
I would look at Mondello and Dick Miller racing, as some aftermarket cams companies are using grinds for other motors on an Olds cam. The tech book Mondello used to offer is worth the $20 for education on Olds the engine.
Start thinking about suspension stuff to make the car hook, like rear control arms, hop stop bars, etc. A posi unit. Consider upgrading to 28 spline replacement axles for a Turbo Buick 8.5 and a matching 28 spline posi unit for a 93 up Camaro/Firebird. Most, if not all, G-body cars are came from the factory missing the lower half of the body bushings, really inexpensive upgrade it to get a set for a Turbo Regal and install them. If you make the most of what you have now, make it hook up and leave, whenever you upgrade the engine it will just be faster.
Another route would be a simple nitrous plate system. Set it up to run at 125 horse and have all sorts of fun, as long as you follow the installation and tuning instructions.
I would look for an aluminum intake manifold like an Eldelbrock Performer or Performer RPM. I would also start too look for a 403 or 455, this is where some guys get offended or defensive, but, you can score a whole 403 or 455 for what an new intake and carb would cost. All the parts you buy for a 350 will work on a 403, so, once you score an engine, you can build it to match what you want, while driving the 350.
I would look at Mondello and Dick Miller racing, as some aftermarket cams companies are using grinds for other motors on an Olds cam. The tech book Mondello used to offer is worth the $20 for education on Olds the engine.
Not here to defend any one or any company. I pay $ just like every1 else. Just here to share my experiences building and racing olds engines.
My opinion is run it first. If you get bored and have money to spend over the winter you can always do carb, intake, and heads. That's about 2g. She'll run better. But that's if the bottom end is good. I'd drop the pan and have a look.
My opinion is run it first. If you get bored and have money to spend over the winter you can always do carb, intake, and heads. That's about 2g. She'll run better. But that's if the bottom end is good. I'd drop the pan and have a look.
Pages of proven combos:
http://realoldspower.prophpbb.com/forum12.html?sid=e6734818b8edb42f33599703c9b1eb83
Nothing here against a 403 or a 455. The big blocks do make it harder in a g body though for room and headers. The 403's have their flaws like windowed main webs, but a girdle will solve those problems. I have a girdled, 10:1, bb headed, 403 in my car.
http://realoldspower.prophpbb.com/forum12.html?sid=e6734818b8edb42f33599703c9b1eb83
Nothing here against a 403 or a 455. The big blocks do make it harder in a g body though for room and headers. The 403's have their flaws like windowed main webs, but a girdle will solve those problems. I have a girdled, 10:1, bb headed, 403 in my car.
I've ran the car on the street just a couple times to see what it's running like. The car has no lack of power now, or at least it seems that way. If I get on it, its cuts the back right tire loose and doesn't get traction until I let off the gas. It's got power. I think my next step should be helping it hook up better
Posi, and good tires go a long way. But my thought has always been, why spend money on the 7.5 posi and gears if you are wanting to drag race it? Put that $700 towards a new rear($700 if you do the work your self) But if you never plan to make good power then the 7.5 is fine and slap in that posi!!! A anti roll bar welded to your frame above the axle is the best way to stop the wobble with big power. But you can get just a stock sway bar from the junk yard and it'll help if your don't have one. The key is to have both tires hook and have even weight distribution. That's how you go straight and quick
Idk what you mean about an anti roll bar welded to the frame?
An 8.5" 10 bolt, or a bolt in 9", or even an 8.8 swap like I have in my car will be tons better than the 7.5" you have in it. Upgrade a better rear, I agree completely, don't waste time on the 7.5 if you plan to make more power. Yes some survive with slicks, I'd rather not take that chance though.
A good posi, aftermarket rear control arms, and a decent sway bar will help, yes. On the street however, traction will be tough with more power. Once the rear is swapped with something stronger, then a good set of tires will help too.
An 8.5" 10 bolt, or a bolt in 9", or even an 8.8 swap like I have in my car will be tons better than the 7.5" you have in it. Upgrade a better rear, I agree completely, don't waste time on the 7.5 if you plan to make more power. Yes some survive with slicks, I'd rather not take that chance though.
A good posi, aftermarket rear control arms, and a decent sway bar will help, yes. On the street however, traction will be tough with more power. Once the rear is swapped with something stronger, then a good set of tires will help too.
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